6 volt to 12 volt conversion
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6 volt to 12 volt conversion
Are there any benefits to upgrading my 1963 Pan? Any tips or suggestions?
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
willburst:
The conversion is an individual choice. I recently changed to the Cycle Electric 12 volt generator as I was tired of buying a 6 volt battery every year and I have put some decent electrics on the bike. Prior to this I was running a Volkswagon 6 volt generator with a bosch regulator. This was better than original equipment. If your bike is stock or a restoration then keep it all original.
hd74
The conversion is an individual choice. I recently changed to the Cycle Electric 12 volt generator as I was tired of buying a 6 volt battery every year and I have put some decent electrics on the bike. Prior to this I was running a Volkswagon 6 volt generator with a bosch regulator. This was better than original equipment. If your bike is stock or a restoration then keep it all original.
hd74
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
Willburst:
I recently went through all this with my 63. Mine is not orig., and to convert over to 12v would have required a crap load of changes to non-related things that were in the way, like the oil tank, battery box, etc. Since all of these things work fine, and when properly tuned the bike starts with only 3 kicks cold, I decided that it was just not worth it.
The real bonus of staying at 6v though, is that you maintain flexibility in dealing with anything that comes up...like what hd74 said about using VW generators.
The main thing, I think, is what electricals you are going to put on it. (Personally I don't even run turn signals. ) If you are going to be running a lot of electrical stuff though then you might as well go to 12 and have your electric start.
Hope this helps.
I recently went through all this with my 63. Mine is not orig., and to convert over to 12v would have required a crap load of changes to non-related things that were in the way, like the oil tank, battery box, etc. Since all of these things work fine, and when properly tuned the bike starts with only 3 kicks cold, I decided that it was just not worth it.
The real bonus of staying at 6v though, is that you maintain flexibility in dealing with anything that comes up...like what hd74 said about using VW generators.
The main thing, I think, is what electricals you are going to put on it. (Personally I don't even run turn signals. ) If you are going to be running a lot of electrical stuff though then you might as well go to 12 and have your electric start.
Hope this helps.
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
There is absolutely no need to replace the oiltank/battery box in order to go 12V!
The Cycle Electric low-voltage regulator is preferred for the hot surroundings of the battery, but a 12n-5.5a-3B battery fits nicely, particularly if you buy the elevator box.
There is nothing wrong with the original 2-brush generator system, other than convenience when it comes to bulbs and a battery. The headlight should be just as bright, and the motor should start just as easily as with a 12v system.
But expect to pay at least $85 a year on a battery, and live in fear of burning bulbs when you are away from home (who rides at home??).
The Cycle Electric low-voltage regulator is preferred for the hot surroundings of the battery, but a 12n-5.5a-3B battery fits nicely, particularly if you buy the elevator box.
There is nothing wrong with the original 2-brush generator system, other than convenience when it comes to bulbs and a battery. The headlight should be just as bright, and the motor should start just as easily as with a 12v system.
But expect to pay at least $85 a year on a battery, and live in fear of burning bulbs when you are away from home (who rides at home??).
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
Sorry, I have been out riding... ;D
Cotton, I should have made it more clear that when I was saying that the oil tank and battery box would have to be swapped/moved that this was specific to my bike, which is chopped/lowered and set up in a very non-standard way as a result. In any reasonably standard frame you are correct that these things should not require alteration.
I should also spell your name the right way. Sorry again!
(Note to self: C-o-t-t-E-n.)
Cotton, I should have made it more clear that when I was saying that the oil tank and battery box would have to be swapped/moved that this was specific to my bike, which is chopped/lowered and set up in a very non-standard way as a result. In any reasonably standard frame you are correct that these things should not require alteration.
I should also spell your name the right way. Sorry again!
(Note to self: C-o-t-t-E-n.)
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
I love my 6-volt, and won't replace it with a 12 unless I absolutely have to.
I found a real good article on the conversion with pics and specs at http://www.bikernet.com
I was impressed on how thorough they were, and have saved the article for that dreaded day for my redhead '53.
Good luck!
I found a real good article on the conversion with pics and specs at http://www.bikernet.com
I was impressed on how thorough they were, and have saved the article for that dreaded day for my redhead '53.
Good luck!
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
RigidRider!
I looked at the Bikernet article don't think it's your best reference.
Supposedly a '62, it had an earlier three-brush generator on it. (No wonder they were replacing it.) But then it states:
> Generally, if you replace a 6-volt with 12-volt, the bolt >holes need to be drilled to 5/16 from 1/4 inch >diameter. Plus the bolts need to be replaced.
No one has to booger their cases that way, as 1/4"-24 helicoil inserts thread into the generator without even the need for a tap. The original bolts then fit perfect.
A '62 already has 5/16" holes.
Their method of packing the battery into the batterybox is barnyard. Insulation that traps the heat inside is counterproductive. You want airflow around it. The soft rubber around the battery also allow it to bounce around, flexing the wires.
While they were catalog picking, they should have sprung another $20 for the metal "extension" box that is made to make the 12n-5.5-3b battery stand at the same height as the H2. It allows an airgap around the battery, and utilizes the stock battery cover for a secure hold-down that keeps wires in place.
Their choice to discard the cover makes no sense.
I looked at the Bikernet article don't think it's your best reference.
Supposedly a '62, it had an earlier three-brush generator on it. (No wonder they were replacing it.) But then it states:
> Generally, if you replace a 6-volt with 12-volt, the bolt >holes need to be drilled to 5/16 from 1/4 inch >diameter. Plus the bolts need to be replaced.
No one has to booger their cases that way, as 1/4"-24 helicoil inserts thread into the generator without even the need for a tap. The original bolts then fit perfect.
A '62 already has 5/16" holes.
Their method of packing the battery into the batterybox is barnyard. Insulation that traps the heat inside is counterproductive. You want airflow around it. The soft rubber around the battery also allow it to bounce around, flexing the wires.
While they were catalog picking, they should have sprung another $20 for the metal "extension" box that is made to make the 12n-5.5-3b battery stand at the same height as the H2. It allows an airgap around the battery, and utilizes the stock battery cover for a secure hold-down that keeps wires in place.
Their choice to discard the cover makes no sense.
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Re: 6 volt to 12 volt conversion
Good info Cotton!
Like I said, I don't plan to convert anytime in the near future, but your points are worth their weight in gold! Between everyone on this board, I can get correct info to compile an accurate fix, instead of a jury rig.
Have a good one! ;D
Like I said, I don't plan to convert anytime in the near future, but your points are worth their weight in gold! Between everyone on this board, I can get correct info to compile an accurate fix, instead of a jury rig.
Have a good one! ;D