I am ripping the old wiring out of my 60 pan and replacing with the original harness but I have a question. I have the terminal board (HD# 72301-49a) but when I try to install on the front side of the triple trees the top terminal hits the bottom handlebar bolt. Is there a stand off spacer to push the board out from the top triple tree? Anyhelp would be appreciated.
Craig60pan
Terminal board behind cowl question
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Please start new topics here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Please start new topics here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
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craig60pan
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- Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
2005 custom built softail
2018 street glide special - Location: Atlanta
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VT
fiberboard terminal plate. has two short filister-head screws, one in the front edge of the top tree and the other on the front edge of the bottom tree, directly under the screw of the top tree? How could it hit the bottom handlebar bolt? You mean the riser bolt? Maybe '60 trees are different than '49-59? Pics worth a thousand words. 
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Guest
No I have the screws facing the rear and yes it does sit at an angle
And yes I do mean the riser bolts.
A couple of photos show how it is now but if I have the board backwards that may be the issue
Thanks for the input
CJ
And yes I do mean the riser bolts.
A couple of photos show how it is now but if I have the board backwards that may be the issue
Thanks for the input
CJ
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- tree1.jpg (193.32 KiB) Viewed 1937 times
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- tree2.jpg (123.37 KiB) Viewed 1937 times
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- tree3.jpg (88.57 KiB) Viewed 1937 times
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Cotten
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I cannot document this, but it makes simple common sense:
If you have tin shrouds as used before '60, you would want the terminals facing the rear since you could easily remove a back panel for access.
But this would require total removal of the cowling (windshield, spots, etc.) of '60 and later models for even the simplest maintenance. If the board faces forward, however, then you need only remove the headlamp bucket to access it.
I haven't researched differences in terminal patterns, but the bottom line is that you want to massage it in there with as much clearance as possible. At least an AMCA judge can't point at it if it's not concours.
If you have tin shrouds as used before '60, you would want the terminals facing the rear since you could easily remove a back panel for access.
But this would require total removal of the cowling (windshield, spots, etc.) of '60 and later models for even the simplest maintenance. If the board faces forward, however, then you need only remove the headlamp bucket to access it.
I haven't researched differences in terminal patterns, but the bottom line is that you want to massage it in there with as much clearance as possible. At least an AMCA judge can't point at it if it's not concours.
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VT
I'm in the "fork" stage of the three projects, with the '49-57 and '58-69 terminal boards exposed. There's 5 pix to post. Rigid frame board has 10 terminals. Duo-Glide has 6 terminals. '60 fork cups are taller than '59, but i don't think that's your problem.
I'm trying to hide a horn in the empty left side of the tin. How can a basic round horn be stuffed in there and secured? I don't want a trumpet horn or a round horn exposed to the elements, hanging under the steering head. There's no fixture at the top of the frame (under the gas tank) frame mount on a '54-57 frame. The round horn is a basic, no grill, V-Twin (33-0712) 6V, with no mounts except the flat-plate with two holes at each end.
The pix are of a '49-57 terminal plate. 10 terminals.
I'm trying to hide a horn in the empty left side of the tin. How can a basic round horn be stuffed in there and secured? I don't want a trumpet horn or a round horn exposed to the elements, hanging under the steering head. There's no fixture at the top of the frame (under the gas tank) frame mount on a '54-57 frame. The round horn is a basic, no grill, V-Twin (33-0712) 6V, with no mounts except the flat-plate with two holes at each end.
The pix are of a '49-57 terminal plate. 10 terminals.
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- Frk.Term_3.jpg (41.7 KiB) Viewed 1916 times
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- Frk.Term_2.jpg (64.39 KiB) Viewed 1916 times
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- Frk.Term_1.jpg (55.8 KiB) Viewed 1916 times
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VT
CJ, your plate has 14 terminals. Mine only have 10. Maybe your terminal plate is shorter. The parts book shows the open (screw slot) end of the plate on top, no big deal though. I can measure the length of the plate. I'll post it tomorrow.
Last edited by VT on Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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VT
Good idea. I'll look for suitable stock that won't vibrate and break off. Those (8") headlight brackets were hardened and rubber mounted for that reason. The V-Twin risers are rubber mounted under the bolt. I'll try to use that rubber grommet under the bolt that's already there, to absorb some shock. Thanks
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craig60pan
- Member
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
- Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
2005 custom built softail
2018 street glide special - Location: Atlanta
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craig60pan
- Member
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
- Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
2005 custom built softail
2018 street glide special - Location: Atlanta
-
VT
My '58-69 is that thinner slab of fiberglass you see above. I don't know it's origin, maybe Mid-Cycle (early 90's) or it could be V-Twins. I haven't had to order a '58-69 board from V-Twin lately, anything I build now is rigid Knuckle or Pan.
Are your fork trees adjustable or non adjustable? Star-shaped damper knob or '60-up aluminum disc knob damper?
Are your fork trees adjustable or non adjustable? Star-shaped damper knob or '60-up aluminum disc knob damper?
Last edited by VT on Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:09 am, edited 2 times in total.
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craig60pan
- Member
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:37 pm
- Bikes: 1960 FL
1951 FL
2005 custom built softail
2018 street glide special - Location: Atlanta