64 turning into a fuel fountain

[panhead_jim]

Pushed the bike outside this morning, unscrewed the petcock and gas started spewing out of the carb. Pulled the float bowl, cleaned it out, cleaned the needle, cleaned the fuel filter and reassembled. Unscrewed the petcock and the gas started spewing out again. It's using a brass float, so I suppose it has got filled with gas or the float valve is bad. Anything else I might be missing? Ran great on Monday...

[beets]

I tried 3 brass floats 15 years ago and they ALL leaked.

[FlatHeadSix]

Anything else I might be missing?

what you're missing is one of Cotten's Durable Floats!
getcha one, you won't be sorry.
and don't waste your time and money buying any more brass floats or anything else for that matter.

mike

[panhead_jim]

I sent him a email message asking for more info. My local dealer recommended the floats sold by Starklite Indian. Are these the same that Cotten sells or a different animal altogether?

[Cotten]

Panhead jim!

Your email hasn't arrived yet, but if you included your postal address, one can go into the mail in the morning.

Please let me know if you lost the original attaching pivot nut and screw, usually pitched when a brass boatanchor is installed, and I can include one.

Starklite's are boatanchors too!
(The one on the bottom.)

Testing various floats in 2010 summer blend P4gas

JARTST10.jpg (53.87 KiB) Viewed 1107 times

Although they are represented to be the same material as my DURABLEfloats, they obviously were engineered without a clue. They not only weigh the same as a brass float (three times an original), they even look like they used the Eversure (Delhi) brass floats for a mold.

The levers that come with them are admirable, however!

Looking forward to helping any way I can,

....Cotten
liberty@npoint.net

[panhead_jim]

Cotten,

Sent you a PM.

[panhead_jim]

Cotton's float arrived today and I was quick to install it. The old brass float was completely filled with gas, obviously the cause of the problem. I installed the float, tapered side up, so that the needle lever fit nicely in the notch. The pivot nut is run through the bottom of the float and I adjusted the float 1/4" below the top for the float bowl (when inverted). The float is also centered in the float bowl. I tested the needle and it seems to close fine when vacuum is added at the end of the seat. Reassembled and turned on the gas. Carb started leaking after about 15 seconds... Pulled it apart again, rechecked and reassembled, same results. Is there something obvious I am missing? Should I go ahead and replace the float bowl gasket, needle and seat?

[panhead_kicker]

Seems I recall that the float is to be offset side ways; not centered. I am pretty sure it's been discussed in the forum the last few months.
Yep , here ---> https://www.hydra-glide.net/phpBB3/view ... set#p24414

[panhead_jim]

That was it. Shifted the float over and now it's not leaking a bit. Pushed it outside and kicked it off (took a few extra kicks, must have flooded the engine). Let it run for a bit in the driveway (no more than 10 minutes), had the advance up a little, maybe half way. Noticed that the front and rear head pipes were starting to glow red... Is this normal?? It is dark outside, but I haven't seen this before on my other bikes...

[RUBONE]

Noticed that the front and rear head pipes were starting to glow red... Is this normal?? It is dark outside, but I haven't seen this before on my other bikes...

Better check that timing Jim (full advance with the mark at the rear of the hole), and double check your valve adjustment while you are at it. IT IS NOT NORMAL!
Robbie

[FlatHeadSix]

had the advance up a little, maybe half way.

Jim, you weren't listening earlier when I told you to move the advance to "full advance" as soon as the engine starts, AND LEAVE IT THERE! You don't need to retard the spark AT ALL once the engine is running, its only for starting the engine. Full advance is when the twist grip is rolled all the way towards you and the timer is rotated fully counter-clockwise when viewed from the top, watch the timer as you twist the grip towards you, the post that the cable attaches to will rotate towards the center of the bike.

As the other guys have said, when you have the timer adjusted at full advance, the timing mark on the flywheel will be somewhere between the right side of the hole and dead center.

letting a bike idle, or run, any length of time with the spark retarded will cause it to overheat, guaranteed!

mike

[panhead_jim]

OK. It's starting to sink in now. Full advance once the engine starts. No waiting.

Thanks. I'll get this bike figured out yet...

[panhead_jim]

The float is working great, but now my fuel line is leaking at connection to the fuel filter. The gasket material looks like just a piece of rubber fuel line was snipped off and used for a replacement gasket. Is this a standard practice? Is there a local source for this type of gasket? I'd hate to pay $5 to ship a $0.25 gasket.

[beets]

The float is working great, but now my fuel line is leaking at connection to the fuel filter. The gasket material looks like just a piece of rubber fuel line was snipped off and used for a replacement gasket. Is this a standard practice? Is there a local source for this type of gasket? I'd hate to pay $5 to ship a $0.25 gasket.

O rings stacked on the line will work. I don't remember if it takes 2 or 3.

[panhead_jim]

That definitely is worth a try. Thanks for the tip.