Throttle cable issues

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awfarrier

Throttle cable issues

#1

Post by awfarrier »

I had my 1950/64 Panhead fixed up by a local mechanic. It has a 1996 or later front end with a disc brake now. The throttle is a duo-cable system but it's going to a Bendix style carb. We seem to be having problems with the throttle cable fraying inside the throttle housing on the handlebar.
My question is- can this setup be accomplished successfully, or do we need to do something else?
I really don't want to have to spend the money on an S&S carb just to get the double cable system to work.
fourthgear
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#2

Post by fourthgear »

awfarrier
I have a single cable set up on mine and has worked fine for about 10K.I used them on Shovels with bendix and others . I'm running a CV carb , but with only one cable .My 65 has a single cabled S&S E on it .. I think I picked a single cable throttle assem. from JP's or the like . If you are fraying in throttle housing , you may not have the right cable bend going to it . they make them in 90 & 45 degree's or it may not be the right cable type all-together .Diff. year assem and cables don't match up. What make throttle cable you using ?
awfarrier

throttle cable issues

#3

Post by awfarrier »

I don't know what throttle cable I'm using. The mechanic (who should know how all this stuff works better than I) put it together. He claims that it's fraying because the accelerator pump isn't working properly, thereby not allowing the throttle return to function normally. This, in turn, is causing the cable to get sort of caught inside the race or get pushed funny in the opposite direction. I can't see why it wouldn't work equally well with a single cable as a dual cable.
There is a 90 deg. bend going into the throttle. That doesn't seem to be a problem, although I can see where it might be. The throttle worked smoothly enough at the beginning, but we had different issues. The carb had been robbed of it's choke mechanism and the accelerator pump was sticking and not allowing the throttle to return to fully closed, so the carb kept flooding.
Also, the thru-tank fuel shutoff didn't work ( too old). So, I bought that replacement setup from J&P that does away with the thru-tank and just gives you an under tank fuel shut off. It doesn't shut off the fuel either.
We're going to put in an in-line shut off just after the left tank and just ahead of the in-line fuel filter.
I have a friend with a '65 Pan who's going to come out and bring a Bendix that he has sitting around. It's complete and we're going to rebuild it, install it, set the timing (again) and in general, check out the whole set up. Hopefully it'll be easier to start after that.
Thank you for your comments. Any other suggestions or comments?
FYI -This is a bike I bought from a friend who sort of inherited it from someone who drank himself to death. It is a '50 enging and tranny in a '64 swing-arm frame with '57-'58 tanks (possibly one from each year) then the aftermarket 1996 wide-glide front end that I had put on. It's nice looking and it runs well but it's been a mother to start.
fourthgear
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#4

Post by fourthgear »

I can see where the sticking accelerator pump , would let the cable bind at the throttle ( I believe the Bendix has a accelerator pump linkage , correct?) . Why not just rebuild the pump on your carb.? Or just rebuild your carb completely . If you take the carb. off , do a pressurized leak check of you intake manifold( even if you don't plan on taking it off , you should still take the carb. off & do a leak check ) . You will find the how to , in the Knowledge base here. You will find a lot of hard starting can be traced back to intake leaks . Not to mention all the other common things , timing , points , condensers, etc.
awfarrier

Throttle cable issues

#5

Post by awfarrier »

Again, thanks for the input. We'll be sure to check out the intake leak when we put on the rebuilt carb.

Gracias.
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