internal fuel valve questions
Forum rules
Please start new topics here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Please start new topics here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
-
- Member
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:04 pm
- Bikes: 1962 Duo-Glide Panhead
2005 Road King Classic - Location: Pelican Rapids, MN
- Been thanked: 2 times
internal fuel valve questions
Stock tanks came separate with my 62. Attached is a pic of the parts I have. I have a new valve and what looks like a line that goes to the other tank. But there is no way the line aligns with the other tank. Is it bent wrong or am I just not seeing something here.
The pic shows my broken old valve on the left, the new one that came from Custom Chrome by the looks of the package some years ago on the right and an attachment with a hose attached to it on the far right with the line below it. WTF..... too many parts. I'm assuming I have all the right parts but have no idea how to put them together and which ones I can use. Obviously the broken one is out. Diagrams, pics, advise badly needed.
The pic shows my broken old valve on the left, the new one that came from Custom Chrome by the looks of the package some years ago on the right and an attachment with a hose attached to it on the far right with the line below it. WTF..... too many parts. I'm assuming I have all the right parts but have no idea how to put them together and which ones I can use. Obviously the broken one is out. Diagrams, pics, advise badly needed.
- Attachments
-
- Internal Fuel Valve and other parts.png (131.2 KiB) Viewed 3230 times
-
- Moderator
- Senior Member
- Posts: 8378
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:09 am
- Bikes: Multiple H-D, Ducati, BMW, Triumph, BSA,...
- Has thanked: 478 times
- Been thanked: 2933 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
You are correct, the crossover line is badly bent. The Custom Chrome shut-off may or may not be a good part, close inspection is mandatory. The valve with the rubber line is not H-D, it is aftermarket. Have you looked in the Knowledge Base and Documents sections? Many of your questions will be answered there.
-
- Member
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:55 pm
- Bikes: 56 FL, 07 Goldwing ,91 BMW K75
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 7 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
If the new valve is no good, then try one from Carl's in SD. He puts PEEK seals in that don't leak. Mine works and looks good.
-
- Member
- Posts: 332
- Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 3:49 am
- Bikes: 1962 FL
1987 FXSTC
1995 FLHR - Location: Columbia, IL
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 94 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
In this site, go to Documentation and look at one of the parts books. You will see how everything fits together, it is rather simple.
-
- Member
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:04 pm
- Bikes: 1962 Duo-Glide Panhead
2005 Road King Classic - Location: Pelican Rapids, MN
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
Went to Documents... went to Knowledge Base.... I'm not finding the INTERNAL fuel valve. Would like to see a diagram of the routing of the gaslines as well. I'm sure it could be my ignorance here. Give me a hint how to find them.
thanks
thanks
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 516
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2011 4:29 pm
- Bikes: '54 FL and a mini-bike
- Location: in the garage
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 84 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
panrider,
The gas tank shut off assembly goes together as follows:
Remove the 8-32 screw and then the operating knob, top seal cap, spring, washer, and seal from the top of the fuel rod.
Take the bottom seat and assemble it by stacking up first one of the seat washers, then the tank crossover line, and then another seat washer.
Screw the bare fuel rod into the seat assembly, then shove the whole works through the bottom outlet of the tank as you are finessing the top tip of the fuel rod through it's opening in the top of the tank, and then screw the seat assembly into the bottom of the tank so it's just snug.
Now, you can stack up the upper components that go in the well where the fuel rod sticks out at the tank top. Slip the seal over the rod followed by the washer, spring, seal cap, and the operating knob. Screw the 8-32 screw in the top of the rod, and . . . . you've got it .
This is a simplified version of the assembly and assumes that the upper and lower tank shut off gas tank bungs are aligned and spaced correctly etc., but it will get you together in the right order.
Geo.
The gas tank shut off assembly goes together as follows:
Remove the 8-32 screw and then the operating knob, top seal cap, spring, washer, and seal from the top of the fuel rod.
Take the bottom seat and assemble it by stacking up first one of the seat washers, then the tank crossover line, and then another seat washer.
Screw the bare fuel rod into the seat assembly, then shove the whole works through the bottom outlet of the tank as you are finessing the top tip of the fuel rod through it's opening in the top of the tank, and then screw the seat assembly into the bottom of the tank so it's just snug.
Now, you can stack up the upper components that go in the well where the fuel rod sticks out at the tank top. Slip the seal over the rod followed by the washer, spring, seal cap, and the operating knob. Screw the 8-32 screw in the top of the rod, and . . . . you've got it .
This is a simplified version of the assembly and assumes that the upper and lower tank shut off gas tank bungs are aligned and spaced correctly etc., but it will get you together in the right order.
Geo.
-
- Site Admin
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3289
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2001 12:00 pm
- Bikes: 1954 FL
- Location: Holland
- Has thanked: 108 times
- Been thanked: 486 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
Here is an old topic from the KB with diagram: viewtopic.php?f=60&t=4020
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 698
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:24 am
- Bikes: 1945 UL
1947 EL
1948-ish Pan
1991 FXLR
2007 FXDB Street Bob - Location: Snohomish, WA
- Has thanked: 22 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
George,old.wrench wrote:panrider,
The gas tank shut off assembly goes together as follows:
Remove the 8-32 screw and then the operating knob, top seal cap, spring, washer, and seal from the top of the fuel rod.
Take the bottom seat and assemble it by stacking up first one of the seat washers, then the tank crossover line, and then another seat washer.
Screw the bare fuel rod into the seat assembly, then shove the whole works through the bottom outlet of the tank as you are finessing the top tip of the fuel rod through it's opening in the top of the tank, and then screw the seat assembly into the bottom of the tank so it's just snug.
Now, you can stack up the upper components that go in the well where the fuel rod sticks out at the tank top. Slip the seal over the rod followed by the washer, spring, seal cap, and the operating knob. Screw the 8-32 screw in the top of the rod, and . . . . you've got it .
This is a simplified version of the assembly and assumes that the upper and lower tank shut off gas tank bungs are aligned and spaced correctly etc., but it will get you together in the right order.
Geo.
If you have a correctly aligned fuel rod assembly and you take it apart, can you put it back together without using the alignment tool? I've looked in the KB, but didn't find this discussed.
-
- Site sponsor
- Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:43 am
- Bikes: 2014 triumph tiger explorer
1976 FXE 93" stroker
1953 FL
1960 FL
1958 45” frankenbike - Location: Cedartown, GA
- Has thanked: 25 times
- Been thanked: 20 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
Yes typically you can. The alignment tool fixes the alignment of the top bung to the bottom bung and unless your rod is bent it should be fine.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 516
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2011 4:29 pm
- Bikes: '54 FL and a mini-bike
- Location: in the garage
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 84 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
mark44,
If the the old gas valve worked O.K., the new one "should" work O.K. too.
Even if there is an alignment problem, I've found that its usually possible to correct it without using the special factory alignment tool.
It's usually pretty easy to diagnose when the upper and lower bungs are out of alignment simply by how well the rod centers up in the upper bung. The top bung generally maintains it's alignment pretty well unless the tank gets bashed; if there is a alignment problem the culprit is generally the bottom bung. The bottom bung can get knocked out of alignment by not being careful with the wrench when tightening up the gas rod's seat. As I recall, the seat takes a 1" wrench, and you need to be careful with that big long wrench so you don't push down or pull up on it when tightening the seat and accidentally bend the bung and throw it out of alignment.
In fact, I've rarely found a need to use a special tool for alignment. Most of the time, once you determine which way the bottom bung needs to bend to line up with the top, you can screw a seat into the bung and then slip a 1" socket over it, and then with the proper leverage, "carefully" bend the bung in the desired direction.
If a gas tank has been wrecked and repaired you might need to not only correct the alignment of the bungs, but you might also need to set the distance between the bungs as well. That is when the factory tool comes in handy, but even then it's not absolutely necessary .
Geo.
If the the old gas valve worked O.K., the new one "should" work O.K. too.
Even if there is an alignment problem, I've found that its usually possible to correct it without using the special factory alignment tool.
It's usually pretty easy to diagnose when the upper and lower bungs are out of alignment simply by how well the rod centers up in the upper bung. The top bung generally maintains it's alignment pretty well unless the tank gets bashed; if there is a alignment problem the culprit is generally the bottom bung. The bottom bung can get knocked out of alignment by not being careful with the wrench when tightening up the gas rod's seat. As I recall, the seat takes a 1" wrench, and you need to be careful with that big long wrench so you don't push down or pull up on it when tightening the seat and accidentally bend the bung and throw it out of alignment.
In fact, I've rarely found a need to use a special tool for alignment. Most of the time, once you determine which way the bottom bung needs to bend to line up with the top, you can screw a seat into the bung and then slip a 1" socket over it, and then with the proper leverage, "carefully" bend the bung in the desired direction.
If a gas tank has been wrecked and repaired you might need to not only correct the alignment of the bungs, but you might also need to set the distance between the bungs as well. That is when the factory tool comes in handy, but even then it's not absolutely necessary .
Geo.
-
- Member
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:04 pm
- Bikes: 1962 Duo-Glide Panhead
2005 Road King Classic - Location: Pelican Rapids, MN
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
Geo, good information. The manual sounds like the tool is necessary, but I guess only so if it is out of alignment. I had mentioned to Carl at Carl's Cycle that I may bring my tank down to him to do the aligning. He looked at me and said just put it in the hole. Good to get the whole picture. My tanks seem to be fine and the valve I have is a Custom Chrome one, just out of the package but it's old new stock - looks like it's about 10-15 years old. But I'll give it a shot and if it doesn't work I know Carl's Cycle offers a good re-designed one. I'm trying to get everything in order before painting it.
Kim
Kim
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 698
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:24 am
- Bikes: 1945 UL
1947 EL
1948-ish Pan
1991 FXLR
2007 FXDB Street Bob - Location: Snohomish, WA
- Has thanked: 22 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Re: internal fuel valve questions
Casaba wrote:Yes typically you can. The alignment tool fixes the alignment of the top bung to the bottom bung and unless your rod is bent it should be fine.
It sounds like I shouldn't have too much of a problem. Thanks to you both!old.wrench wrote:If the the old gas valve worked O.K., the new one "should" work O.K. too.
Even if there is an alignment problem, I've found that its usually possible to correct it without using the special factory alignment tool.