Rear hydraulic brakes

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dj

Rear hydraulic brakes

#1

Post by dj »

Started tearing into my '60 and discovered that it has a '63-'72 rear brake. The wheel cylinder was froze up so I pounded the pistons out preparing to order a rebuild kit. After looking at the wheel cylinder, I'm thinking maybe a new cylinder, but how do you know for sure? I'm sure there is a max diameter or something. Should the cylinder be honed, or is cleaning it up with steel wool good enough? (with a vinegar and lemon juice solution for the rust, then DOT 3 for the finish)
Accel makes replacement wheel cylinders that are redesigned better (they claim). The Lockheed cylinders are also still available. Not being super picky about "correct" here, which should I choose, if I were to buy a replacement?
I also need new shoes. I would like to try my hand at riveting new linings onto the shoes, but am wondering what tools are needed? (p.s. I don't have a manual yet.) I know that it's not like a "pop rivet" gun, so could someone explain the procedure? Do you need some kind of drift?
I read Billy's advice in another thread about starting from the middle and working out, or from one end all the way to the other, but never from both ends to the middle. That's good common sense. I also discovered that the brake liners look wider in catalogs on the '63-'72 brake compared to the '58-'62. A good thing as far as I'm concerned. I'm going to have the drum turned at the local shop, if possible. My ID measuring stick doesn't read out to 8.060", and I'm not sure how many times they've been turned before.
I'm also going to replace both steel tubes, front and rear....just because...the fittings are boogered up AND one time I got into a nasty Saturday morning accident when the brakes on a 1 ton Chevy flatbed I was driving...failed. I plowed right into a Ford Explorer doing over 40mph when I ran the red light, so every since then I'm very wary of brakes on older vehicles. There are vastly varying price differences on these two steel tubes. The cheapest chrome ones I've found are at NOS parts at $17.00 a pop. V-Twin and J&P are asking $27.00 each!! My rear "flexi-line" is in great condition.
The Lockheed master cylinder rebuild is also a given.
Also, is there any real difference in quality between imported rebuild kits and American kits? The price would seem to indicate that, but we all know the story there. However, I would prefer to buy American if there really is a difference in quality.
I know I've asked a lot of questions here, but brakes are always an important discussion.

You gotta have the 'whoa' to match the 'go'!
Jonderson
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Re: Rear hydraulic brakes

#2

Post by Jonderson »

DJ:

To put pads on the shoes is more trouble than it is worth if you don't have an arbor press. You can get the shoes with the pads already on them for around $35. Decent new cylinders are only around $40, so I personally would go (have gone) that route. Better safe than sorry. One thing that I would recommend that you replace also would be the bleeder nipple. They are pretty soft and if it is old it is likely weak. It is really irritating when you finish the brake job and go to bleed the lines and the damn thing breaks off on you.
Glad to hear you are replacing the lines too, I had a coupling go at the "t" last year and got a bit of a surprise when the pedal bottomed out. I just went to an auto parts store and got their straight stock lines and bent them myself. Way cheap, even if you screw it up a couple times first and have to buy more.
I got my cylinder and shoes from Antique Cycle Supply, and could not be happier with them. They are mail/phone order only though, so you will have to call them up. The number is on their website, and I would highly recommend getting their catalog, even if just for the nice exploded diagrams it has. http://www.antiquecyclesupply.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
dj

Re: Rear hydraulic brakes

#3

Post by dj »

It figures it require something I don't have. There are plenty of arbor presses at work, but I'll buy complete new shoes.
I also discovered that my '60 has a '67-'72 wheel along with the '63-'72 brake, so the whole thing got replaced at some point. I'm glad I figured that out before I started ordering parts for a '60.
I'll probably redo the brake lines myself as well, but chrome would be cool.
Have known about Antique Cycle Supply for a while now, but haven't ordered a catalog recently. Grand Rapids is only about 150 miles from here, and I'd like to drive out there some day and just look around with a lot of money in my pocket, but I need to get a catalog soon at least.
Jonderson
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Re: Rear hydraulic brakes

#4

Post by Jonderson »

DJ, Antique Cycle doesn't sell out of a storefront. It is pretty much just a warehouse with a telephone. If you call up and order something they will let you come pick it up, but they don't do direct sales as a rule.
weezeo
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Re: Rear hydraulic brakes

#5

Post by weezeo »

I just did a complete rear brake job on my 66 and bought a new wheel cylinder and shoes as opposed to what you mentioned as price wise and total labour it just was crazy to put myself thru all the BS (not having adequate tools for that job) All parts were less than $50.00 But when I was a younger aman I didn't mind doing all that honing and riveting. But good luck with whatever your decision.
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