56FLH Front Brakes

[sprucecreek]

Now that I have the linkert rebuilt, I have a one-kick starter (always when hot, usually when cold) and am turning my attention to other problems. The front brake has rubbed a bit since I got the bike (tic tic tic, one tic per revolution), so I figured something needed adjusted. Don't have a lot of play left in the cable, so I centered the shoes as recommended. This seems to make the problem worse, with some more rubbing going on. So, time to get inside.

I see all the sources recommend removing the front wheel first, then go after the brake. Is that the best strategy, rather than pulling the drum off with the axle? What is the preferred tool for removing the socket bolts that hold the wheel to the drum?

[Guest]

You might have to remove the 4-bolt front fender first.
Loosen the wheel lugs with a 6" piece of straight 5/16" hex stock and a socket wrench first to separate the drum from the hub.
Or, loosen the axle nut, the two right leg cap nuts, [leave the (left side) axle sleeve nut tight], tap the axle out with a brass mallet, while you support the wheel underneath with your knee. The drum comes off with wheel.

[john HD]

mine rubbed like that until i discovered i had the springs incorrectly installed.

john

[FlatHeadSix]

Spruce,

By all means pull the front wheel, everything will be easy after that. The lugs are actually 7/16" hex and lug wrenches are available from most vendors. Bear in mind that the drum is also pinned to the starhub with five dowel pins, after removing the lug nuts the drum will probably still be stuck tight to the wheel hub and may require a good rap with a soft hammer to coax it off. If you pull the axle and remove the spacer you may have enough room to take the drum off while still attached to the wheel, but don't count on it.

this link should take you to a similar discussion we had a while back about lug wrenches or something.

mike

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3185

[Panacea]

you would have to clear the shoes as you pull the drum off with the wheel, I prefer to pull the lug bolts. The springs have to be on the backing plate side or they drag on the inside of the drum....Mike

[sprucecreek]

Thanks, folks, as always for the tips. I have managed to quiet the brake down a bit by experimenting with the sequence of tightening the various nuts, and making sure that the pivot stud isn't stuck (wd 40 to the rescue). It seems that the trick is to grab the brake lever, tighten the axle sleeve nut, then the axle nut, then do a re-grip with the brake lever and crank down the pivot stud nut. At least, that worked for me.

I hope this holds up for a month or so, since this is great riding weather. But, I'll be into it in the fall, and have a 7/16 allen driver on order (those things are hard to find in a small town, that's for sure!) from harbor freight.

[john HD]

spruce

in a pinch just go to the hardware store and look at cold chisels.

you can get a cheap one that is 7/16 hex and grind/cut the end off. then you have an extension you can get a socket on!

cheap and easy.

john

ps

you can make a very effective anti theft device by taking a length of 7/16 hex stock drilling a hole through one end of it.

place the hex stock through your rear axle plate and into one of the lug bolts. pass a pad lock though the hole drilled just inboard of the axle plate.

now you have an extension that doubles as a locking device for your bike.

john

[Panacea]

I got a couple lug wrenches from Bill's in PA, they were just a few bucks and work real well....Mike

[imboden]

so my springs should be on the inside of the shoes? toward the fork leg? cause mine are draggin like crazy

[Panacea]

YUP!