57 FLH rear head removal and torquing?

[Hop Up]

I'll have to take my 57 rigid frame panhead front head off for valve job. I'm not sure if I'll take the read head off, at 5% blowby there might not really be reason for that. But is it possible to take the read head off while the engine is still in frame?
Another question is how to torque the head to the right tightness? I would appreciate if someone posted some pics of the tools used to be able to use torque wrenc when installing the heads. I have read about torque adapters and seen pics of them, the way to go?

[beets]

I can get both heads off my 56 in the stock frame. I use a torque adapter from Snap On to get a 90 degree angle when tightening the bolts.

[steve_wood]

You should be able to get the rear head off. I have the thick "Accurate Engineering" rocker cover gaskets installed (they're almost .125 thick) and I can still remove the head.

As for special tools, yup you're gonna need one. I use a 9/16 box end wrench bent 95 degrees and welded to a 1/2" socket receptacle.

I've found that crow feet and other extends don't work.

Maybe Cotten could post some pictures of his stuff...

Don't forget that when using a extender or special tool, the imaginary line between the head of the torque wrench and the hole where you put the bolt must be 90 degrees to the line of your torque wrench or reading will not be accurate.

[Hog54]

I always put my heads on last after the motor is in the frame so I guess the rear should come off with motor in the frame.

And I never have used a torque wrench to put the head bolts on either.I just put them all on snug first and tighten them back to front as much by hand as I can with a head bolt wrench and never had a problem.The secret is using good head gaskets.I always use james head gaskets with the sealer already on them.

[Robert Luland]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-KNUCKLEH ... 56468d1740" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Cotten]

Folks,

The need for a torquewrench is minimal on a stock bore cylinder, as the casting is stiff enough to minimize bore distortion from fastener stress.
However, as the casting is thinned by successive overbores, the distortion increases geometrically.

By .040" overbore, fastener stress distortion is detectable with a boregauge.
By .060" over, distortion is significant.
By .070" over, distortion at the base nuts is enough to rub the piston skirts.
Headbolt distortion pulls the cylinder wall outward at five spots, compromising ring seal and power.

Proper use of a torquewrench assures that stresses are even and accurate.
Its most effective application is when the cylinder is stressed to spec while fitted for the piston, so that installation to that spec returns the cylinder to proper concentricity.

Please check out the Knowledge Base under 'General' for Torquewrench Notes, and try the search function for "torqueplates".

Installing heads with the motor in the chassis calls for a selection of extentions, many of which are easily fabricated with a good torch.

.....Cotten

[Hog54]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-KNUCKLEH ... 56468d1740

You can get that wrench at sears.Craftsman makes the same one.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... stAvl=true" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have been using this wrench for 30 years.I dont know why they dont just call it the harley wrench because I have never used it for anything else.The 5/8ths end fits the base nuts and the 9/16ths end fits the head bolts.

[CaptMike]

I also bought the Sears wrench. If I can say, "On My '57..." Over the years the frames have changed shape so I bolted in the bottom end and built the top-end in the frame. What I found was my rear head hit the post seat tube (easier to fix with the heads off). Torquing the heads I have an old S-K 3/8" beam torque wrench and two different (short/standard) sockets I torqued the heads on but... naturally the face of the torque wrench is facing the floor so I just marked it on the back side at 65. With what Cotten said, I don't think its possible to to use a 1/2" drive torque wrench without the homemade dog-bone wrench.

Craftsman makes a 3/8" beam torque wrench that looks like my old S-K (and it goes to 75 lbs). http://www.sears.com/craftsman-beam-tor ... 944690000P

[Bosheff]

Before ya torque, be sure to index heads for proper intake clearance....bosheff

[Hog54]

Before ya torque, be sure to index heads for proper intake clearance....bosheff

Good point.I have always installed the intake before I tighten down the heads for the first time.Then you know its lined up.

[Cotten]

Just for clarity, Folks,

The "obstruction" wrench works well with a 1/2" drive torsion wrench, especially the cheap ones with an upward drive as well as a downward.

headtorq.jpg

A 5/8" Allen drive socket in the 5/8" box-end of the wrench allows it to be affixed to the torquewrench in four different 90 degree positions, greatly aiding engagement when installed in the chassis.

Often the square 1/2" drives will fit the 9/16" box-end of the wrench, making it appropriate for cylinder bases on the bench. In the chassis, however, you will have to torch up a wrench, or remove the timer.

....Cotten

[Scrap]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-KNUCKLEH ... 56468d1740

You can get that wrench at sears.Craftsman makes the same one.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... stAvl=true" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have been using this wrench for 30 years.I dont know why they dont just call it the harley wrench because I have never used it for anything else.The 5/8ths end fits the base nuts and the 9/16ths end fits the head bolts.

I have a "proto" that looks similar, it was sold at the parts store as a " starter wrench". It was for getting at the 3/8th bolts that were up and out of sight on most starter motors.

[Hog54]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-KNUCKLEH ... 56468d1740

You can get that wrench at sears.Craftsman makes the same one.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... stAvl=true" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have been using this wrench for 30 years.I dont know why they dont just call it the harley wrench because I have never used it for anything else.The 5/8ths end fits the base nuts and the 9/16ths end fits the head bolts.

I have a "proto" that looks similar, it was sold at the parts store as a " starter wrench". It was for getting at the 3/8th bolts that were up and out of sight on most starter motors.

Well I always thought this wrench was made just for harleys because I have had it for 30 years and I never had use for it on anything else including the race cars I used to build.Plus the fact its 9/16s on one end and 5/8s on the other just right for putting on a top end on any bike except for evo.

[CaptMike]

Mr. Cotton hit the nail on the head. Just need a 1/2" drive with a 5/8" hex to use with a good standard torque wrench. I think Sears stole that wrench design from Harley.

[Cotten]

There are many brands:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO- ... Pid=search

...Cotten