Valve clearance with solid lifters

[baz]

I have a 1950 pan with STD heads, and a Andrews 3 grind cam, with Solid lifters.
What should I set the Valve Clearance too ???

[57pan]

Hi baz, welcome to the forum. I see that your post has been read several times without a reply so I'll have a go at it.

You may want to do a search on the topic because I know it has been discussed before - in fact I may even have asked it myself (can't recall for sure).
Anyway, I don't know if your particular combination of head / cam makes any difference but, the general procedure for adjusting solids is to start with the motor stone cold. Get one cylinder up on top-dead-center with both valves closed and adjust them so that the pushrod has zero up-down play but you can still rotate the pushrod with one finger. Then do the other cylinder the same way. Then roll the motor over a couple times and double-check the adjustment.
You're shooting for zero clearance when cold because as things heat up the aluminum heads will expand more than the iron cylinders and steel pushrods and you will end up with some clearance in the valve train when the motor gets hot.
Others may have some more words of advice, but that is how I did mine when I had solid conversion units in it. I have since gone back to hydraulics.

[108]

BAZ, 57pan is exactly right on the solid lifter adjustments ... its realy the only way since you want the clearance to be as little as possible when hot for minimum noise. I think all available pusrods are aluminum so they can exspand with the engine somewhat.

[Cotten]

Steel pushrods expand "with" the cylinders more than aluminum. Cylinders are cast iron.
Aluminum pushrods should be adjusted noticeably tighter.
(Even steel should be tighter than a 'one-finger" spin, or you risk rockerarm, cam, and tappet roller damage over time.)
This has been covered before, so perhaps a 'search' of this forum would help.

...Cotten