torquing head bolts

[el rojo]

I am getting ready to put my heads back on and was wondering how you can accurately torque the two inner head bolts?

[old.wrench]

rojo,
If you aren't comfortable doing it by comparative "feel", you can use one of the shorter 9/16" "torque adapters" like you can buy from Snap-on or Kent-Moore. If you keep the adapter arm at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you'll get a true torque reading.

Geo.

[Gotnoclass]

If you must use an extension like I did, here's a good reference.
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExte ... ultipliers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[58flh]

Also when Tourquing your heads-Don't go all they to the final 65lbs.-(That's what I tourque to-I know of others that use less).Anyway Go half-way on both Then go to Final number to finish.After you start the Mill-Bring it to operating temp.-(It will get there quick with everything fresh so keep a fan on it or just ride it for 5-miles.Let it cool ,(COMPLETLY to ambient temp.).I like to wait overnight!--Then LOOSEN the top Motor mount /& Re-Tourque To your Finish number you previously used!--Some may be fine -others you will find a Pound or 2 more before it hits target number.Forgot /-loosen the EXhaust before RE-TOURQUE.And like anything else tourque in a star-pattern.When done Re-tighten everything & Check your Valve-lash IF USING SOLID-TAPPETS!/They may be have to loosened-up a skosh ,or they may be fine.If HYDs.Dont worry /that little bit wont hurt Nothing.---Good-Luck---Respectfully----Richie

[bedwyr]

Hi el rojo. When I first built my 1960 pan 40,000 miles ago I read all the available literature, and like you wanted to do the best job possible so I paid particular attention to the correct torque figures. It was only when I started to torque the heads to the reccomended 65 lb/ft that I thought that this was far too high for a relatively small steel insert in an aluminium head that was almost 50 years old. Since then I have always used a final torque figure of 50 lb/ft which I feel is far more reasonable considering the low state of tune of the engine and its age. Using James 'Fire ring' gaskets and a retorque at 50,100 and 500 miles, I have never had any problems.

[58flh]

BEDWYR---As long as the head has been sanded even--Then 50lbs. will hold!--When I did a roadside repair on mine that blew a gasket in Daytona--I didn't even use a T-Wrench!--All by feel,& it ran the rest of the season that way with no issues!.I use James BLUE head-gaskets.The 1 that blew on me was a Drag-Specialty or CCI--Don't remember /All I know is it ran without a hitch 1200-miles.Then sat overnight-When I went to start it I heard it HISS LOUD! --5hrs. later I had a James Blue on it & tightened to feel.& Ran around FLA. & back to NJ & the rest of the season!.--I don't doubt that you seal-up at 50lbs.!--This just shows how good these motors really are!/& Very forgiving.---Respectfully---Richie

[Tattoo]

I always go by feel.... I've seen way to many stripped holes/bolts using a torque wrench on 60 year old metal..... Many thread inserts pulled out. Also I've seen a many cam covers busted out trying to use one on it....

[nmaineron]

I never owned a torque wrench till about twenty years ago...did many pan,shovel and iron head by feel and never had an issue....what I did do is to go and buy good wrenches to do the job well...long combo 12 point and 6 point box wrenches of good quality...I bent them to get a purchase on the inside bolts which is where the 12 point is best...just tighten a bit at a time to all bolts and use a cross pattern and try to use the same type of leverage when you get to real tight..when its tight its tight no breaker bars or pipe over the wrench deals...if you are strong enough to break a wrench,put your kid gloves on

[el rojo]

If you must use an extension like I did, here's a good reference.
http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExte ... ultipliers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Very cool! Thanks

Rojo

[el rojo]

Hi el rojo. When I first built my 1960 pan 40,000 miles ago I read all the available literature, and like you wanted to do the best job possible so I paid particular attention to the correct torque figures. It was only when I started to torque the heads to the reccomended 65 lb/ft that I thought that this was far too high for a relatively small steel insert in an aluminium head that was almost 50 years old. Since then I have always used a final torque figure of 50 lb/ft which I feel is far more reasonable considering the low state of tune of the engine and its age. Using James 'Fire ring' gaskets and a retorque at 50,100 and 500 miles, I have never had any problems.

Thanks bedwyr, I also have been concerned about pulling or stripping out the threads in the aluminum head and then when you throw in the age factor and what kind of beating they have taken by previous owners, it's a little stressfull. One of the bolts that hold the rocker arm cover on that thread into the aluminum D ring has been stripped by someone before me so they had to go with a longer bolt and put a nut on it.

Rojo

[el rojo]

BEDWYR---As long as the head has been sanded even--Then 50lbs. will hold!--When I did a roadside repair on mine that blew a gasket in Daytona--I didn't even use a T-Wrench!--All by feel,& it ran the rest of the season that way with no issues!.I use James BLUE head-gaskets.The 1 that blew on me was a Drag-Specialty or CCI--Don't remember /All I know is it ran without a hitch 1200-miles.Then sat overnight-When I went to start it I heard it HISS LOUD! --5hrs. later I had a James Blue on it & tightened to feel.& Ran around FLA. & back to NJ & the rest of the season!.--I don't doubt that you seal-up at 50lbs.!--This just shows how good these motors really are!/& Very forgiving.---Respectfully---Richie

Good to know! I'll try 50 lbs and go from there. That's one of the many reasons that I LOVE Pans! They are a simple straight forward endgine without a bunch of electronic shit to keep them running, and they look soooo cool!