closing intake valves

[panhandler]

Just ready to do the bubble test but can't seem to get both intakes closed at the same time. Altho both lifters will drop down, I can turn the pushrod on one but have to drop the other one a hair more to be able to turn the rod, which then tightens its mate again beyond being able to finger turn it. I just readjusted my pushrods so I have more resistance on them when turning with my fingers (solid lifters, adjustable sifton rods). So, question is do I have to remove both intake pushrods in order to do the test?

thanks for your input.

regards,
Keith

[1950Panhead]

Front intake valve closes at bdc, rear intake valve open 180 d (1/2 turn) later, both intake push rod should spin free.
Jerry

[panhandler]

thanks Jerry, I can't find the point where both will spin freely, is it just a small nudge on the kicker arm?

[58flh]

You should have no trouble finding the sweetspot!/Panhandler is this a fresh mill?-& are you sure the camchest gears all line up?--If yes you should have no problem finding both closed!//Solid lifters -Alum. P-rods REAL TIGHT but not enuff to lift valve!--Steel p-rods should have a drag with a dry edge of hand,they must turn freely with a drag.---Respectfully--Richie

[panhandler]

Thanks kindly for the input. I am assuming the gears are all lined up when the motor was rebuilt in '08; I have not pulled the cover since then. I'll give it another try today. I think, according to what I have read on these forums, that I have been running the pushrods somewhat looser than others, I have always set them with zero lash but freely turning with fingers. I have now set them quite a bit tighter.

regards,
Keith

[1951 adam]

I would just loosen them all so valves are closed, do your test and then recheck and readjust them all. You might want to check your cam timing again, could be off .
Adam

[panhandler]

Thanks Adam, yes, I plan to just loosen them all. I did find the spot where both intake rods turn, it is a very small window and took several cycles before I found it. Didn't want to pull the gear cover unless I absolutely had to. I think I have my rods too tight as well so will slack them off when I redo them. Part of my bubble tester is sitting in the post office on a long weekend so can't get it til Tuesday....my luck.

thanks again...

regards,
Keith

[1951 adam]

Keith,
The adjustment depends on a few things , I use the colony aluminum alloy rods , that expand nicely with engine temperature . I found the steel pushrods did not expand well , and there was a lot of play and noise when hot, and I tried to set them as tight as possible with engine cold ( hard to spin by hand) . I have some early units , but don't feel they held pressure , maybe I didn't run them long enough, but didn't want to take a chance on them bleeding down on the road. Colony pushrods get bashed all the time , but I have no issues, and they are really quiet . It's very very hot were I live , so viscosity is not a factor. Good luck with the test, I made mine out of a tub stopper with a tire valve, I used a Harley air shock pump. Doesn't take much to fill the pocket. Mine doesn't leak a bit.
Adam

[panhandler]

Thanks Adam, I'm using sifton aluminum adjustables with solid lifters. I have had good luck with them and no mushrooming probs. I never had a prob with the way I have always adjusted them but after reading threads on here, most people say aluminum have to be quite tight in the adjustment. Perhaps you can answer one question with regards to the timing marks in the gearcase...if one is out a tooth, would that account for hard hot starting? I'm getting ahead of myself, I know, because the bubble test shud show or eliminate a major prob. Just wondering on the other....Altho I know and trust the guy who did the rebuild, people have off days and miss things. Like I said, don't want to have to remove the cover if I don't have to as it is tight and no leaks.

thanks again,

regards,
Keith

[1951 adam]

Keith ,
Is the engine on a bench now? It's pretty hard to miss the marks when your setting up the gears. I've seen it before though. If you have any doubt , you should pull it for peace of mind. What are you using for a carb?
Adam

[panhandler]

Adam,

no its in the bike. I've pulled the cover years ago and I know its not a big deal and ya, for peace of mind you're right. I've got a Super E on it....ran a thread about hard hot starting with the E just a while back....now I've finally got a bubble tester I will do that and eliminate step by step. I personally think the timing marks are ok, just kinda grabbing at any little thing, but like I said, will do the bubble test first and go from there.

thanks for the input.

regards,
Keith

[Cotten]

Keith!

I just turn on the air and kick her through, until I hear them close and the regulator bumps up.

Even with a burnt valve, or an Indian (it seems like they never are both fully closed), the regulator maintains the differential. Just like leaks around a testplate.

....Cotten

[panhandler]

thanks for the input, Cotten........even tho I have been wrenching on this girl for over 20 years, I still feel like I'm on my first date with her.......




regards, Keith