dashboard lamp sockets

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Scrap
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dashboard lamp sockets

#1

Post by Scrap »

want to replace the dash lamp sockets on 57 pan. Bought new HD part # 71162-70. Not quite right. Is there a correct replacement available? If so, how should the old ones be removed and the new ones installed. There is a retention rim that is peened over the socket. How about working with the 71162-70's, would solder, perhaps silver solder, resist vibration? Brazed on? Thanks in advance.
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#2

Post by Perry Ruiter »

71162-70 won't work because it grounds the bulb via the socket body (no bakelite insulation in the socket). The original sockets were totally isolated from the base. Best bet is to send your base to me. I have NOS sockets in stock and had special tooling made up to press the sockets in so it looks like a factory job. I've done dozens and dozens of bases for people. If you're happy with the plating on your dash it's overnight turnaround. Otherwise a week to get the base cad plated. Attached are photos of a restored 57 base I just put in the mail to a guy yesterday. PM me for details ... Perry
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Scrap
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#3

Post by Scrap »

Will do! Thanks, and thanks to the Panhead & Flathead Site. This was my first post, I get solid advice in less than day. What a country.
Scrap
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#4

Post by Scrap »

Perry, you got me thinking, which is often a problem, but why is grounding the bulb a problem? The "hot" wire is isolated from the base, and shouldn't the base be bonded to ground?
Thanks
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#5

Post by Perry Ruiter »

Scrap wrote:Perry, you got me thinking, which is often a problem, but why is grounding the bulb a problem? The "hot" wire is isolated from the base, and shouldn't the base be bonded to ground?
Thanks
71162-70 is a one wire socket. The wire is hot and the bulb is grounded to the base via the socket. All the two and three light panhead bases use a two wire socket so the socket itself is isolated from the base. One wire is hot and goes to a common terminal on the base. The other is grounded via either the cutout relay or the oil pressure switch (that is to say when the bulb should be on there is a path to ground, when it should be off there isn't). So in a nutshell, with the 71162-70 socket, if you ran the one wire to the hot terminal the bulb would always be on. If you ran it to the cutout or oil pressure switch, there would be no hot and the bulb would never be on ... Perry
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#6

Post by Scrap »

Perry Ruiter wrote:
Scrap wrote:Perry, you got me thinking, which is often a problem, but why is grounding the bulb a problem? The "hot" wire is isolated from the base, and shouldn't the base be bonded to ground?
Thanks
71162-70 is a one wire socket. The wire is hot and the bulb is grounded to the base via the socket. All the two and three light panhead bases use a two wire socket so the socket itself is isolated from the base. One wire is hot and goes to a common terminal on the base. The other is grounded via either the cutout relay or the oil pressure switch (that is to say when the bulb should be on there is a path to ground, when it should be off there isn't). So in a nutshell, with the 71162-70 socket, if you ran the one wire to the hot terminal the bulb would always be on. If you ran it to the cutout or oil pressure switch, there would be no hot and the bulb would never be on ... Perry
Ahhh, that makes sense, I was aware of the separate ground wire but it just didn't click...thanks for clearing that up.
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#7

Post by craig60pan »

Just an unsolicited plug for Perry's work
He has done both bases and speedos for me with excellent results.
CJ
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#8

Post by j**r**m »

Me too he does very nice work!
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Re: dashboard lamp sockets

#9

Post by Scrap »

j**r**m wrote:Me too he does very nice work!
Hey j**r**m, a reply 4 years later. You are one laid back dude.
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