Re Re Spirals

[rootwad]

One other thing: On my spark advance, counter clockwise to advance, the way I am setting it up, don't know if it is correct, is a clamp holding the control coil bolted where the voltage reg used to be, so it'll be pull to advance. Aren't they meant to be run like throttles, in sync with the throttle? The way I have been running it is to retard it, start it, then advance it all the way. It seems like it only runs really well when I am on the throttle. I was told that running advanced all the way is hard on the motor.
Any input would be appreciated.
rootwad

[RUBONE]

The advance control should roll towards you to advance, the same direction as the throttle. The way you are starting it and running it is correct. Whoever told you not to run fully advanced is a Jack-Ass. All ignitions are designed and set up to run fully advanced at anything over much more than a fast idle. Your car, your modern bike, your lawn mower. Without a picture of your set-up it is hard to say what you have rigged up.
Robbie

[FlatHeadSix]

Aren't they meant to be run like throttles, in sync with the throttle?

Eric,
Robbie is correct, your starting and running procedure is right by the book. The manual retard is only for starting, the spark should be at full advance once the bike is warmed up and you are riding. Running and riding with the spark retarded causes overheating, bad for your motor!

Spark advance is NOT in sync with the throttle, changing the throttle opening position should not change the spark advance. The auto-advance circuit breakers (as Robbie said, same as your car or lawn mower or any modern engine) run the spark up to full advance as soon as the engine starts, anything above kicking rpm, and keep it there. You should do the same thing with your manual advance; retard it slightly to kick start the engine, once the engine is running move it to full advance and leave it there.

if I get a chance in the morning I'll post a couple of pictures of the different styles of spirals used in the bars. The 48-52 were different than the ones used previously and after, they are unique, slots go all the way to the end, spirals are fastened to the bars with set screws in the collar instead of a big plug screw in the end of the bars. The original design from the 1920's worked, and was better, and they went back to it until the end of internal controls.
mike

[FlatHeadSix]

it'll be pull to advance

Eric,
That is also correct, the cable will pull the circuit breaker, turning it counter-clockwise, to advance the timing. Rotation at the grip is clockwise, you turn the grip towards you, but the effect at the end of the cable where it attaches to the post on the circuit breaker is just the opposite and it will turn the circuit breaker counter-clockwise. The spark advance spiral in the left grip is a "pull".

mike

[rootwad]

Hey Thanks everyone for the help. And thanks for helping me to identify the "when" of my bars. I believe that they are the ones between 48 and 52 as flatheadsix described.
So, once I am running, advance the timer and LEAVE IT THERE... ? I was kinda looking forward to playing with the advance, how about when idling? Retard it so it lopes real nice? Or is that a rookie move? Thanks again for the info and your patience.
When finances allow, I will be putting it back to as close to stock as I can. It has a Paughco frame with 12 over-stock wide glide, which I will run until such a time as I find and can afford to go back to stock. However, I would rather put the motor and tranny in a pre-58 frame. I like the way the rigid tracks.
rootwad

[awander]

just a note:

The right grip, when rolled toward you to "push" the throttle linkage and open the throttle, is being turned counter-clockwise(viewed from teh bar end). If turned clockwise, it would pull.

The left, spark-advance grip, when rolled toward you to "pull" the timer to full advance, is being turned clockwise(again, as viewed from the handlebar end). If turned counter-clockwise it would push.

So I bet the spirals and the other "guts" are the same on both sides.

[PanPal]

Letting it potato is not good for the motor. It is best to only retard for starting but sometimes you just want to hear it lobe.

[FlatHeadSix]

how about when idling? Retard it so it lopes real nice? Or is that a rookie move?

Eric, its more of a "Fonzie" move. You can impress the twinkie nerds by retarding the spark and letting it lope at about 500 rpm, sounds REAL cool! But don't let it run that way for very long, not only will the engine heat up, it ain't gettin much oil either. Just long enough for everyone to hear it and go "whoa". It also will usually quiet down any ticking valves you might have due to slightly loose adjustment of solid lifters.

Retarding the spark at idle will also tell you 2 important things about the condition of your engine; if the engine instantly dies when you start retarding the spark at idle it usually means only one thing: MANIFOLD LEAK! The other thing it will tell you is if you have the timing set correctly, if you can run it all the way to full retard without killing the engine it usually means that your timing is in the ballpark.

mike