a few questions on gas line, switch placement

[LittleAl]

as I'm winding things up of course I have some questions on small details:

1) how in God's name does the steel crossover line get connected? I think I have the wrong one as I cannot get it weaved in between the cylinder, rocker cover, gas tank, etc and if I was able to it doesn't look like it will line up flat to the base of the tank on the left tank where it has to go onto the fuel valve. I'm tempted at this point to cut it and run a few inches of fuel line to connect them.

2) I'm using a S&S "E" so I'm going to run fuel line from the fuel valve to the carb. what size/type fitting do I need to connect to the bottom of the fuel valve (through the tank type, repop from V-Twin) with a short length of tubing to slip fuel hose onto or with a barbed end for the hose?

3) where is the switch supposed to be located for the spot lights?

4) is the rubber tank separator supposed to butt up against the dash or go underneath it?

5) anyone seen my wallet, I thought I left t on the kitchen counter... just thought I'd ask since you guys seem to know just about everything! lol.

man do i love this internet community of helpful friends!

[panz4ever]

1. Since you are not running OEM tanks why not go with rubber lines. Think adaptors are sold that allow this fitment. Maybe the Tedds tanks are the problem and not the cross-over lines.

3. My OEM spot lamps have a switch on each. The main wire goes to the terminal board on the front forks. Can post a pic of the spots if you need. Still in the build up stage and a far way behind you.

4. Think the rubber piece is a repop afterthought and not OEM

[RUBONE]

The spotlight master switch is normally locate on the right side handlebar matching the dimmer switch.
The rubber tank piece goes under the dash cover which holds it in place when bolted down, it is original.
Your wallet is in the refrigerator, you left it there when you put the new 12 pack in.
Robbie

[FlatHeadSix]

Al
the fuel cross-over should have a flared fitting on the right tank and a banjo on where it connects to the instant reserve fuel shut off on the left. it runs almost parallel to and in front of the pan, slightly above the "D" ring if you have one, and has 2 right-angle bends on the left side, one bend goes up and the other goes over to the fuel shut-off. All solid fuel lines will require a little tweaking to get them to line up, new, old OEM or re-pop, they all need a little bending to make them line up with no bind or pre-stress.

The spot light switches for yours, and all the hydras before it, were in the light itself. Each light had one of those ball-end switches in the back of the housing and they were wired hot straight from the terminal board. I know, it doesn't seem like a very good system, but that's the way they did it. The springers had a switch up on the handle bars, a much better system if you ask me. You had to turn them on and off individually and you can even turn them on with the bike not running, wierd.

The rubber filler strip goes under the dash cover.

keep us posted buddy!

mike

p.s., I'm leaving for D.C. at 06:00, I might be out of the loop for a bit but I'll try to check in once in a while.

[LittleAl]

Mike, you going to Rolling Thunder?

I'd really enjoy meeting up with you if that's where you're heading. I'll be down in DC Saturday morning, staying at the host hotel, the Hyatt at Crystal City. I've only missed a few times in the last 20 years or so. Rain or shine it's the tiniest little bit I can do for our Military guys (and girls).

If you're going to RT or still gonna be in DC on saturday/sunday lets hook up. Of course I'll be in the Pentagon parking lot at 7:00 am and hanging until I get out onto the route, probably around 1 PM.

PM or email me and I'll give you my cell phone number

[LittleAl]

oh and thanks all of you, for your help on the questions.

one last thing, I thought I had everything set up right but now the dash cover doesn't fit exactly right, doesn't go down far enough for a nice fit on the speedo & ignition switch. the hold down bolt won't even make it to the stud. the dash sits flush on the top of the tanks

I guess it's the repop tanks? Guess I have no choice but to take one of the tanks off and shim up the dash base...

oh, and I found the wallet, right next to the case of 24 as you said, no point in running to the store so often for a 6 or 12 pack, lol

[panhead55]

hey al, i had the same problem with my fuel lines, i couldnt get them to line up or curl through that mess you described earlier. i have original tanks too. what i did, since im not currently restoring my bike and just wanted to ride it, was put rubber lines on. in my case, you can use part of the v-twin steel to rubber line conversion kit. i only used the big ring on the bottom left tank, the other parts provided didnt match my tanks. so i took an original left side steel threaded banjo, cut it off an inch or so and then clamped a rubber line to that. works for now. hope this helps.

-billy

[LittleAl]

Billy, that's exactly what I set up to do!

seems like it will work fine although I haven't actually did the final install yet. I did fit all the parts though and looks fine. I'm glad it worked out for you, means it should be fine for me too.

[VPH-D]

At one time, H-D sold shims to space up the dash base, but washers work just great. You may also have to move the speedo around to get the cover to fit down over it and the ignition switch.
VPH-D