gas tank shut-off valve help!

[pomps_pans]

I can't get my shut-off valve at the gas tank to stop leaking. I've got new copper washers above and below the banjo fitting. I've even faced the surface on the shut-off valve where the copper washer and banjo bolt mate, but it still drips slowly. I don't want to use some sticky paste crap, but if I have too... Does anyone have any tips/tricks? THanks!

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[old.wrench]

pomp,
If the gas tank's sealing flange is a little rough it will be hard to get get a leak-proof connection even though you've got new sealing washers and good surfaces on the other parts. I use a little bit of Permatex Perma-shield (same as the old blue Hylomar, I believe) applied to all the sealing faces. It doesn't take much, just a thin even skin applied with a small brush (like a cheapo flux brush). Another little trick is to use the special copper O-ring type sealing washers (used between the bowl and bowl lock nut on the Linkert carbs) in lieu of the standard copper or brass washers; they are a tad thicker when compressed, but they do a good job of sealing.

Geo.

[Scrap]

I don't know where your banjo came from. The one I got from JP went straight to the junk bucket, didn't even bother to try it. Kick-Start, 616-245-8991 provided an excellent cad plated replacement.

[drinner-okc]

I went to a local gasket & seal machine shop and had them machine some from Delrin ( a modern plastic product with top chemical resistance) The ID was perfect, the OD just larger than the brass OEM but it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.
They were expensive (about $7.00 ea.) but they completely dried up the streaking under my '65 tank. I took them a tank, gas valve & the end off a cross-over tube. They made sure the material would not break or ooze out under torque.

[james]

First off the tank seat needs to be clean and dry with no paint, bare metal. Suggest alignment of the holes with special tool if you can get your hands on one. I recommend using Carl Olsens (carlscyclesupply.com) complete fuel tank shut off for 2 reasons, quality made to fit and seal right plus I use permatex industrial hydraulic sealer on the crush gaskets. A very thin sealant that works quite well.
The second part of leak stopping is the "peek" seal that is on the tip of the shut off rod. No gas dripping from the carburetor because the shut off
valve now shuts off the gas flow. I've had mine installed since 2012 without a leak. How many times have we all tried to fix this problem over the years?
Mine is fixed and I'm very happy.

Jim

[pomps_pans]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help. I talked to Carl Olsen at Davenport and I've been meaning to order one of his valves for my 58 and my 47