58-64 Oil Tank Diminsions

[fatfatboy]

Men,
Would one of you you be so kind as to pleas give me oil tank dimensions are tell me where to find them for a 58-64 Duo Glide?

I am trying to fit the aftermarket oil tank that came with my basket case Dou Glide. I currently have the mousetrap eliminator clutch release arm attached to the tranny and there is not enough clearance to get the oil tank in.
My oil tank measures 6-3/16" tall at the back right corner. 4" tall on the back left corner (primary side). 7" tall at the very tip of the horseshoe and 8-1/2" from front to back.

Here's a couple photo's to explain my situation.





Another issue is the tank sits so high that the lower tank mount doesn't even come close to reaching the tank. Sits about two inches above the bracket.
I'm assuming thats because the mousetrap eliminator clutch release lever sits up taller than the stock clutch release lever but I don't have a stock one to compare it to.

Thank you for your help.



Kirk.

[RUBONE]

Basically all the aftermarket tanks are the same dimensions as stock tanks. The Duo-Glide and rigid oil tanks are also the same dimensions. the only differences are the battery rod tabs on the swingarm types.
Your problem is that clutch arm. It is a 1968 type designed for a '65 up oil tank arrangement using an electric start oil tank, a completely different animal. To use a mousetrap eliminator on a duo-Glide you need a custom clutch arm that is much flatter than that one, and the routing for the cable is lower than the later types as well.

[58flh]

I run a Eliminater & your arm seems way off!--It should be about 6-7-inches long & almost straight.Also Follow the washers & fastener installation correctly--(K-Base).Pull the arm & Mock-up the tank---(you can still use that arm with sone cutting & drilling!)---Im sure someone with a swinger will More helpful!---Respectfully---RICHIE

[Panacea]

Or just use the correct release arm and a mousetrap:)..

[VPH-D]

It looks like you have a -68 release lever, which won't fit under a horseshoe oil tank. Old mouse trap eliminator kits included instruction for mutilating a stock release arm, or you can buy an aftermarket eliminator arm. I don't know anyone who still runs an eliminator, we've all reverted to mouse traps on our Pans.
VPH-D

[fatfatboy]

Thank you gentlemen for your help.
I do want to run a mousetrap and I would like to get a center fill oil tank but have not come across either one yet.
Right now I'm just trying to get the bike running with what came with the basket of parts an then swap out parts as I come across them.

Before I posted this request for help I did some searching for the eliminator setup and I seemed to find as many different ways to set it up as there is as many different chili recipes there was at the last chili cook off I went to.

In my boxes of parts there is a cobbled up clutch release arm that must of been used previously but thats when this motor and tranny was on a rigid frame. When I tried to hook up the clutch cable and eliminator to this cobbled up arm the cable came up short so I must be installing the eliminator wrong or the arm needs more heating and bending. The arm in the photo above is an arm I picked up at a swap meet last weekend for a couple bucks. I bought it just to try and see if it would work.

The rear oil tank mount that came with the bike is one that mounts to the fender like the 36-57 does. I bought a '58-64 lower tank mount and am trying to switch to that.

I'll mock up the oil tank and then beat the rod into submission to fit my application. At least until I came across a mousetrap.

Again I thank you all for your help.

Kirk

[fatfatboy]

I got the oil tank mounted without the arm in place. If I use the spacers on the lower mount bracket the tab that connects to the primary is a 1/4 to high to allow it to be bolted. So I'll have to use a shorter spacer which means it will be real tight to get an arm under the battery/oil mount plate so I'm thinking I might as well just go ahead and get the mousetrap instead of using the mousetrap eliminator.

Couple questions.
1) Is the pull on the mousetrap easier to pull than the eliminator? I have short fingers.
2) Is the V-Twin mousetrap any good?

Thanks again for your knowledge.

Kirk.

[58flh]

KIRK!---The pull on the Eliminater is harder then with a mousetrap -(I can pull mine with 2-fingers ,but-I also run a plate short in the clutch!.The eliminater is a piece of flatstock that has a thread for the clutch cable & -2 mounting bolts that are usually not both used -just 1!--You can bend the strap to up a little so the clutch-cable dont wear a hole in your ratchet-top!!-(this is where you can work with 2-parts -(the arm & the eliminater strap!)-I like tweaking both & usualy I give a 1/8th of cable clearence above the Tranny Lid!.On your Eliminater for the swingframe-You should have NO TROUBLE using the 2 Bolts to Mount it!.Take your time & go slow.Its VERY EASY to do.(REMEMBER to keep the shaft that the arm slips on over the trans cover TIGHT!)-So the FORK does NOT SLIP OFF THE THROWOUT BERING INSIDE!).OR you will have to pull the cover & its easy to do JUST a waste of time.& Lots of cursing FOLLOWS!.After the Eliminater is installed you can BEND the end up a little if NEEDED for cable clearence over the lid!,-You can heat the ARM & put it in a vice ,slip a pipe over it & just tweak the END WHERE the CABLE HOOKS-UP!.THIS May or May NOT have to be done!--(JUST remember a MIN. of 1/8th clearence on the clutch cable over the ratchet lid!).--If MORE ITS GOOD!.FOLLOW clutch ADJ. procedures from the manual.(hint)-Once the cable is installed turn the pushrod ADJ. IN until you feel tension pulling on the arm!-This will have to be re-adj. BUT YOU WONT LOSE the THROWOUT BERING from its slot!.There are LEVERS Available that are or I should say Make the PULLING of the clutch easier!.A STOCK CLUTCH is EASY ANYWAY!--You can get levers if your fingers are that short!---RESPECTFULLY---RICHIE

[Bigincher]

Admittedly it's been over 35 years since I did it, but my old '41 pan had a mousetrap on it when I bought it, and I ran it that way for the first year.
But being a kid and wanting to do my own improvements on the bike, I installed a mousetrap eliminator. Almost forty years later, still running it.
In my case, the pull on the Eliminator was less than the pull on the Mousetrap. In my opinion, putting a mousetrap back on the bike would be going backwards. Just more stuff to fuss around with and adjust. Unless you're trying to get it back to stock, why wouldn't you go with what you got--- you just need the proper clutch arm, and it should be readily available.
However, I encourage you to do what you like-- it's your bike, no-one else's...! (Just be smart about it.)

[fatfatboy]

I have the small C shaped eliminator. With the C facing backwards (open end facing the front of the tranny and the threaded hole up) I was able to hook up the cable with the arm in the photo and pull the lever. Everything seemed to work ok I just couldn't get the oil tank on. I'm going to heat up the arm and flatten it out to see if I can make it work and use some shorter spacers so my oil tank can mount to the primary. At least for now so I can get this bike running again.

I eventually want to go back to the mousetrap when I come across one just cause I want the stock look.

Richie, What effect do you get for leaving one plate out?

[58flh]

Kirk---That arm is aftermarket !-Also it looks like it needs to be cutdown,if you flatten it -its going to be sticking out the leftside of the bike.the arm should be an inch shorter then the back of the trans-then drill for cable & open rear of hole for ferrule.I run a disc short just cause its an easy pull!-If you had it hooked-up & you pulled it -then your good to go-However if you feel its to hard to pull you can pull a friction disc out of the hub behind the half-plate.I been running like that so long I cant remember anymore!--If your heavy & pulling a hack leave it all together-(You need to ride it & decide for yourself).-Anyway thats how its done.---Respectfully---Richie

[Scrap]

Like Bigincher, I removed my mousetrap on my 57 back in the 70's. The eliminator kit was complete, came with the bracket, a correct for an eliminator release arm, new cable, and the later style shovel clutch springs and clutch pack (extra disc) and even a new Barnett hand lever. One of the few after market items that ever worked right out of the box. If you use the original springs without the mousetrap your left arm will look like Popeye's after awhile. (get the anchor tattoo) With the right stuff it works just fine. I still have my mousetrap and I plan on putting back on this winter but only because I want to. Type in mousetrap eliminator in the search box and you will get a ton of information. If you need a photo of the installation let me know.
Sam

[fatfatboy]

Well I took the torch and vise to the arm and flattened it quite a bit. There is now about 3/8" bend to the arm.

237c68d0bb909e2ad506961f8e570c67.jpg

But its still not enough as when I go to put the oil tank on, the mount plate still sits on top of the arm and will not allow a connection between the primary tab and the oil tank tab and the lower oil tank bracket mount wont sit on the top of the swing arm. The tank tab and the primary tab are touching but are are about 1/4" away from connecting hole to hole.

The arm now is 7-3/8" from the tip of the arm to the center point of the mounting hole.
Here is a photo from atop the tranny showing the distance between the edge of the tranny and the arm. Its dark but you can also see the mousetrap eliminator bracket mounted around the seat post and the clutch cable hooked up.

59606712f45f3318854499b4a42f4ce9.jpg

I'm wondering,,, Should the arm be completely flat with little to no bend or could it be possible that the oil tank tab that mounts to the primary is too short?
When I mocked the oil tank with the supplied 9/16" spacers at he rear and without the arm in place the primary tab and the oil tank tab would not line up completely (again a 1/4" off).

Heres a photo of the oil tank tab for reference. It's roughly 2-1/4" long/tall.

bdaac90f16ed653bedd444bf7d4d336b.jpg

Richie, If I were to cut the arm down (cutting off the bend leaving the arm pretty much flat) would the arm be to short? Maybe cut it just below the ferrule hole thats there now? That would make the arm 7" with a very small amount of rise.

Sam, I've seen the eliminator mounted on a '57 and it was mounted opposite of mine (behind the post and upside down). When I tried to mount mine that way the cable was too short and nothing lined up well. I do know the previous owner ran this tranny and motor with this eliminator kit but it was all in a rigid then.
If yours is set up differnt that what I've got I'd be interested in a photo or some words.

Thanks again gents. I appreciate the input.


Kirk.

[Scrap]

Kirk,
Note that on mine, the bracket is in front of the seat post and is bolted on the bottom of the tank support. The release arm has a slight bend, just enough to prevent the cable from touching any obstructions. The length of the arm is 7 1/2 " from the cable to the center of the shaft.

mousetrap 1.jpg

mousetrap 2.jpg

mousetrap 1.jpg

[fatfatboy]

Thanks Sam. Looks like I'm close. Looks like I just need to flatten my arm just a tad more.
I do appreciate the photo's.


Kirk