Cracked and broken Frame on my 1956 FL

[JohnnyBadBrains]

Yikes, not the way I want to post, but reality cannot be avoided. I found a crack (not a hairline one, or partial) but her whole darned frame is down right broken about ten inches forward of the pogo seat down tube, and immediately forward of the upper motor mount. I suspected this possibility when I got a sideways sway, or slow wobble on long sweeping curves while leaning significantly. It is a stock frame, no stretch, no rake, all tabs and sidecar loops still on it. running all mechanical brakes, and stock panhead. I'm no big dude, 5'6" 170 pounds. never carried a passenger ever. (But who knows about the last fifty tears prior to my tim ewith her)

My question is: is this something a competent welder (which is NOT me) could fix and if so, will I be left with a sturdy, reliable frame on which I can continue to ride the heck out of the bike daily (freeway, streets of Phoenix AZ)

Any input and experience anyone has to share I would certainly appreciate as I weigh my options of a repro frame, or NOS frame, or repairing this one. Too painfull to see her sit broken on the table lift.

Thank you everyone for reading!

JohnnyBadBrains

[steve_wood]

The best solution would probably be Wasco Frame Repair. www.wascoframe.com or 253-927-0669.

If you look through the knowledge base you'll see that he comes highly recommended.

You might be tempted to get simply get it welded by the local shop, and it might just work, but it might not and then you got to do it all over again. The best bet is to get it done by the expert and then you'll never have to worry about it again.

Good luck !

[Cotten]

Steve!

A pic of the break would help. If the frame is still straight, welding shouldn't be difficult.

....Cotten

[Bosheff]

Where ya gonna score an NOS frame, and if there is such an animial in existance, what prey tell is ticket on it?....bosheff

[JohnnyBadBrains]

Harley 48E-621 Panhead Frame. Undetermined Rake with all tabs. $1,500 OBO
Bosheff: found this on Craigs;ist in Phoenix. I'm trying to upload a few pics for Cotten and you guys, the definition of pix are over 3Meg and I'm a copmuter idiot and having a hard time getting htem under the 2 Meg size. So until I find a friend here who can do it or show me, I'll say that the frame is still visibly striaght, forward part is lower than rear part of break, so hope that helps until I pop up pics.

JBB

[panhead]

Mail your pics to me

[Bigincher]

The best solution would probably be Wasco Frame Repair. http://www.wascoframe.com or 253-927-0669.

If you look through the knowledge base you'll see that he comes highly recommended.

You might be tempted to get simply get it welded by the local shop, and it might just work, but it might not and then you got to do it all over again. The best bet is to get it done by the expert and then you'll never have to worry about it again.

Good luck !

I wholeheartedly agree.
Dick at Wasco frame will not only make the repairs, but he'll put the frame on his table and check it out to see what else might be tweaked, then he'll straighten it all back to spec. You'll be able to rest easy knowing one of the best in the country made the repairs.
I'm not saying you won't find someone competant who lives closer, but Washington State isn't that far from Arizona. Dick is a true 'old-time' frame repairman---- not many of them left anymore that are still good at what they do!!

At least give him a call and discuss it.

[RUBONE]

Johnnybad brains,
Repair it. That is a fairly common area for pan frames to break, and not a real difficult fix. Check with the guy recommended. Also, do not confuse NOS (new old stock) with OEM (original equipment manufacturer). The first means NEW and never used before, period. One of those would set you back at least 10 large if you ever even found one! OEM could be any old USED H-d frame, either stock or chopped to hell.
Robbie

[panhead]

The pics:

frame1.jpg

frame2.jpg

frame3.jpg

frame4.jpg

[DuoGlide62]

If that were my frame there'd be only one thing to do. Do it right. Replace the backbone.

http://oldbikesinsd.blogspot.com/search ... e%20repair

[Cotten]

It looks pretty tired, and surprisingly thin, for some reason...
As Rick points out, the entire section encompassed by the top motormount should be replaced.

The mount is a catalog item, but fabricating the replacement section, as well as reinforcing slugs within, will require some art.
And at that point, it will have to be re-indexed straight (as per the Service Manual) before final welding.

But it is still a transplant that many enthusiasts can handle, even if a pro welder closes her up.

....Cotten

[Bosheff]

The frame that is being passed off as "has all the tabs" in fact does not. He is being somewhat honest when he says "unknown rake", cause there hasn't been a protractor invented yet to measure that much rake. Yer gonna have to run a bunch of front end to utilize this particular frame, unless you plan on bringin the neck back. Hack loops are missing also....bosheff

[Bosheff]

Ya know, it looks to me like part of yer top motor mount has been trimmed away where it meets the back bone of the frame. This may or may not attribute to the early demise of the frame. Also, it appears in the pic that the top motor mount itself has a crack in it at about three o'clock if my peepers ain't foolin me....bosheff

[1450]

Harley 48E-621 Panhead Frame. Undetermined Rake with all tabs. $1,500 OBO
Bosheff: found this on Craigs;ist in Phoenix. I'm trying to upload a few pics for Cotten and you guys, the definition of pix are over 3Meg and I'm a copmuter idiot and having a hard time getting htem under the 2 Meg size. So until I find a friend here who can do it or show me, I'll say that the frame is still visibly striaght, forward part is lower than rear part of break, so hope that helps until I pop up pics.

JBB

hi johnny i live gilbert and looked at the frame i think you should fix the one you have you be happy you did.

[NightShift]

Dear Everybody,
If you whack the spine behind the mount and then peel off the old motor mount you can save the chunk by putting it back in with slugs made of crushed pipe. Drill holes in every thing so you can work the slugs around with a pick awl. Stick one in the spine and another in the chunk. Set it in place and wiggle and punch the slugs to bridge them and then weld the holes solid with everything else. Then put on a new motor mount.

If I can do it anybody can,