Cross-over bushings

[VintageTwin]

Anyone know how to ream both sides at once on a rigid frame? It's a line-ream task. if you ream one side then the other the brake shaft will bind. super long reamer would be the only way?

[mbskeam]

hello,
Ok.. if you can find a reamer that will reach from one side to the next.
heres what I did, after reaming one side I pushed reamer thru to the other and built up a layer of glass tape on the shaft till it fit tight in the reamed hole. put oil on the tape (wrap the right way so it will not unwind). Then push it and ream the other side, this will work to get the bushings line reamed.
I would have made a caller for the reamer on a lathe but the search for that toy goes on. If you can not get a reamer let me know and we can work out something.

mbskeam

[VintageTwin]

I re-arranged and added some words to make the process clearer to my own self. Does this still sound right?
"After reaming one side I pushed reamer thru to the other with the socket extension on the reamer's hex end. Then I built up a layer of fiberglass tape on the socket extension shaft till it fit tight in the first bushings reamed hole. Put oil on the tape (wrapped the right way so it will not unwind). Then push it and ream to the other side, this will work to get the bushings line reamed, because you have supported the reamer and extension shaft in the right-side reamed bushing, and that support of the extension shaft will give the reamer a pilot for the left-side bushing".
In the back of my mind I thought this must be a job for duct tape somehow...but I couldn't conjer-up a complete mental picture. Thank you.

[mbskeam]

hello,

well,.....
the reamer I used is about 9" long, the reaming head is only about 1-3/8" long and is ajustable with a allen head type expander in the end of it. I used my 1/2 air drill, with the air turned way down and lots of molly- D cutting oil. with the glass tape on the shank as posted above. I think duct tape might be to grabby and the edges tend to curl if you rip it into strips.I also do this at work to the machines that I build.
It always looks good on paper but in reality.........well lets say thats where the mech. comes in, to get it done.

mbskeam

[VintageTwin]

Okay. I've got that adjustable reamer. Mine has a socket hex on the drive end, probably the same allen head adjuster for the cutters. If I can get a snap-on socket extension connected that won't wobbble and use the fiberglass tape as a collar...okay. The attempts I made earlier, I was barely removing any material in the bushing by hand turning the reamer, then installing the cross-over shaft for fit. When I do it, I'll snap some pix of the process and post them. Thanks.

From JW on that reamer:

"i forget what happened but i could look at the one we sell if it's in stock. I think there was some thing about the one that would be long enough, was not cost effective, and most guys would rather ream the bushings all to hell than spend that much money on such a tool. I think the one they got to go though, was long enough to go thru both, but almost out of hex when it was thru all the way. Shank was the size of the ream, so it was self-supported in the first bushing. I'll try to remember tomorrow. nice duct tape arbor idea".

Looks like your idea got the nod from NY, mbskeam. I'll try to duplicate what you did, and pix it and run it up, over on Forum (new)>Projects. Or, if you can draw and scan what you did, then post it over there and we'll give you credit for the tooling, since it was yours.