Painting Frame

[VintageTwin]

Anyone have an idea about how to mount the frame on a turntable? I'd like to be able to mount the tail or the neck of the frame and spin it as I'm painting.

[sleeper]

V T, I like to hang my frames & tins, I paint, I can turn them easily & get ALL areas easily & do a good job!! my 2 cents... Billy

[VintageTwin]

Hanging my frame sounds like I have to hang it from the rafters in my shop. I guess I could hang plastic to make a "surround" and create a roofless booth. I'm wearing that scuba gear to keep from breathing the isocynanates. Guess that's the way to go. I'm going to build a two-post scaffolding and plant the posts in 5 gallon buckets of dirt outside the garage door, in the gravel driveway. Put a crossmember 2 x 4 between the posts and hang fenders and tanks. That DP-90 primer dries pretty fast. Thanks for the tip.

[sleeper]

Using the Fresh-Air Scuba gear is Smart! The paints have improved dramatically & so has their toxicity. My ceiling in my shop is finished. But I have screwed in [like]meathooks, to hang things I paint. & I do make a plastic surround to keep the work clean. And equally important, if not more, is having a source of fresh air to breathe! You can't appreciate your work, if you're sick from breathing paint poisons.. Good Show!!

[PBR]

VT, the best thing for fresh air is a breathable air compressor. I talked to a PPG paint rep,while in A&P school and cynaide is asborbed thru skin,eye membranes, etc., ear a spray sock,and a set of coveralls. PBR

[VintageTwin]

The compressor i have is a diaphram type (10 lbs. wt) is was for leak detecting at the bottom of swimming pools. Fresh air pump it is. Right about the cynaide, ear holes, skin, etc. It'll kill you later if you don't cover. The single stage scuba mouth piece covers, then I have that drug-store face mask (glass, I can clean the lens w/ reducer).Surgical stocking, tie the top, cut a small face mask hole. I'm spraying outside. I don't care how much dirt or bugs get in it, it's black. It'll rub out. 9850, rated as "no effect on finish," means no clear coat needed for unleaded-fuel protection. (Seal DP-90 primer under Black or it bleeds through, said the specs.)

[VintageTwin]

Found an environmentally friendly paint stripper that works as good as Aircraft?, but with no Methylene Chloride. That means you can hold the part in your hand and wire brush the paint off parts. I had a primered and urethane painted transmission mount that E-Z Way? stipped to it's OE rusted/cad finish in about 15 minutes. The stripper comes in a gallon jug with a small spray bottle attached that you use to keep parts wet. I wore a cannister mask and stripped some parts in the shop, out of the wind. 800-742-1022. About 30 bucks a gal. Call them for location or to order.

Forget about doing the frame with E-Z. I had to revert back to Aircraft Stripper? to do the job on the frame. E-Z works on small parts that you can coat and wrap overnight with Saran wrap. Works real good for that.
Here's the frame half-stripped, and the tools i used : Aircraft stripper, scuff pad, popsicle and wooden paint stir stick (stir stick works with scuff pad between the seat post and trans. support plates), putty knife, two sizes of test tube brushes, thick rubber gloves, a cardboard box to hold behing the frame so overspray goes in the box and not on the floor, a spray bottle of water to remove stripping-flecks from your face....every fleck burns like fire. Also extinguished by sweat.

[VintageTwin]

The floor of the shop is covered with visquine. This is the end of my second day. I'm half done. Stripping the casted parts like the frame neck and axle gussets are a bear. Has to be the worst part of building. Use a 10K rpm wire brush on a hand grinder to finish the flecks left on the castings and tubes. It helps, but won't remove any real paint.
I'm brushing naval jelly over the bare parts, letting sit for 15 min, then hosing off and drying with air and paper towels; covering the frame and parts with drop cloths until the morning I sand the parts with 180 grit garnet paper, blow-clean, coat with DX579 metal etching, re-wash with Oil Eater or Simple Green, blow and wipe-dry with paper towels. Wipe everything with DX330 as you hang them on hooks to paint. PPG, DP-90 two-part primer over that.

[VintageTwin]

A wire cup removes some of the small spots. Won't touch urethane paint. Helps with overall cleanup around the castings. Great tool for the job.
Headstock is pinned. #1107 4-26-96.

[VintageTwin]

Glass bead blast the frame instead of stripping. If you strip, use Aircraft Stripper? on the frame and E-Z strip on the sheet metal. You have to work with thick gloves, long sleeves and pants, and shoes with Aircraft?, but you can work in shorts, no shirt and flip-flops using E-Z strip (800)356-1022. You need a gallon. I haven't tried their paste. I would next time.

[VintageTwin]

I'll post some pix later about which areas to tape-off prior to painting. Places like frame gusset rear axle ramps, motor, trans mounts, etc.

[VintageTwin]

I sprayed osphoric acid (Naval Jelly) on the raw metal fenders after washing the cosmoline/grease off with soap and water. Get the jelly down in between the laminate plates inside the rear fender and between the mount tabs of the front fender. Hose off and dry with paper towels and an air hose.

[VintageTwin]

[VintageTwin]

This file set is at Home Depot. Cheapo-pak. All the edges and holes on these raw fenders need filing. Don't remove the starburst from the rivet heads. An axe whetstone works well for the fender tip crimps and side rails.

[VintageTwin]

The frame was stripped indoors. Sunlight exposed alot of paint still left in places. Once you get this far into stripping, no way can you leave any paint flecks attached. The tools are important. The wire brushes are plumbing copper fitting brushes. Home Depot. Get a 1/2" and 3/4". The 3/4 is for the front sidecar mounts, 1/2" for everything else. The worn-down 1/2" brush is perfect for the skid plate holes in the seat post plates. The putty knife as a fleck-flicker. The file for rough stamping edges. (I had to leave the fork cups attached. No suitable tool to remove them exist on the market yet. A drop-in oblong steel lozenge that is less than 1" wide and no longer than the diameter of the top of the cup, and dropped into the frame neck, has been suggested, but I haven't made one yet. With this lozenge, you could pound on the top of the bottom cup.)