:::::::::::Sand Blasting::::::::::::: a Harley" 74 Frame !

[Motorcyclemike]

We have a place about 25 miles away that charges so much to use the sand blaster........question is......its me that will use it and i need to know what i need to block off and runn
old bolts in the frame areas like the bolts that hold the support for the running boards brake pedal and foot clutch ect to protect the threads and the area around the fork neck from filling UP with sand do i need to cover that where the spedo cable hole is ?........any answers will sure be appreciated........Thank you.

[58flh]

MIKE---The crossover tube,NECK,& Anywhere sand will likely accumilate--Bring some prepsol with you so you can wipe it down because it will rust FAST!---RICHIE

[58flh]

MIKE---The crossover tube,NECK,& Anywhere sand will likely accumilate--Bring some prepsol with you so you can wipe it down because it will rust FAST!---RICHIE

[Bigincher]

What finish will you put on it when you're done- paint or powdercoat?
If powdercoat, you'll want to get all the grease out of everywhere so it doesn't melt out and cause a mess in the powdercoat oven. The seat post tube is obviously the most challenging area; a tool can be fashioned to run a wire wheel up and down it with a solvent of your choice. I assume you'll replace the seat post bushing.
It sounds like you're using good common sense on where and how to protect from the sand blaster. Bear in mind that if you use bolts, they can leave a 'shadow' from the blaster.
I see frames on a regular basis that have been commercially sand blasted with no special protection. It's not an issue; all the threaded holes are simply chased with thread chasers. Any sand that made it's way into the tubes or castings is simply blown out with compressed air using a nozzle with a long tube.
And even in the humid Pacific Northwest, they do not rust over as has been suggested.

Edit: Don't forget to protect or remove the grease zerks.

[58flh]

BIG-INCH--I blasted a few in my time & by the time you get done!--Where you started is already rusted!---I took a regular tube that was replaced on one frame & blasted it!--It took 15-min. to completely coat it in FINE RUST!--& this must be because Its in the Atlantic NorthEast!---I found no other way but to take a done frame thats started to rust & take a scouring pad to take rust off, Then Prepsol on a rag & no troubles!--When ready for Paint or whatever--you simply wipe it down with Alcohol & its good to go!--PS-Once wiped have the Primer ready to shoot as you have a short time before RUST!---Respectfully---RICHIE

[55panFL]

My 55 frame had oil weeping out of every little seam and crevice. I tried every thing to get rid of the oil, paint thinner brake kleen ect. and it would still weep out of everywhere. I ended up using a propane torch to warm all the areas up and burn the oil out. worked great! It dont take much heat. I have also done some 36 & 37 Knuckle frames that where Brazed together (Not sure if it was brazed or something similar) and they didn't have the oil weeping problem cause oil couldn't get in to the seams. so I was able to just blast and paint.

[Bigincher]

Richie,
I'm just relating my experience, which I've acquired by helping out part time at a frame shop for the past several years. I've seen sand-blasted frames sit for extended periods with no visible sign of even a hint of rust. I can only guess that the difference us in the environment, being inside a climate controlled shop.
Your experiences are quite different than mine, so I'll have to say its not possible to predict what Motorcyclemike is going to encounter, rust-wise.

[Cotten]

I agree, Richie!

Here in the humid MidWest, I have watched steel and cast-iron blasted clean to "graymetal" flower with light rust in minutes. Especially if its cooler in the blast chamber than the air outside.

....Cotten

[Bigincher]

Like I said, it's an environment issue.
No wait, I forgot-- it's called "the rust belt". Perfect.

[old.wrench]

Motorcyclemike,
Use the sand blaster with a light hand and if you have a choice of media, try to select one that isn't overly aggressive. I've seen frames that were sand blasted and much of the detail (sharper edges, casting numbers etc.) was removed along with the paint, rust, and crud. Some of the industrial blast media does a good job of removing not only paint, but metal as well

Geo.

[3711]

Here in Ok most powdercoating shops don't credit any sand blasing done because they bake the frames prior to coating. The heat bakes paint off along with grease/oil etc. If your going to powdercoat, check with the shop before wasting your time and money.....walt...tulsa,ok

[Huck]

Ospho<< spray, wipe or brush it on. The frame won't rust, doing so will give you time to get it tuned up. Bout 25 bucks a gallon I keep some around.

[james]

All good points, get rid of the grease, wash out as best as you can. Stuff rags in holes such as brake crossover even if you think you got all the grease out, the neck so sand doesen't enter the frame, the seat post hole, stuff it, plug up the grease fitting holes and lastly the head lock. Unless you remove it stay clear of it. Since you can't cover it with tape successfully, use something to cover it and use a "C" clamp around the neck covering the lock. Blast around the lock then remove clamp to continue. Lots of dry air when done, wipe down with prep sol asap then metal etch primer.

Jim

[Bigincher]

I have seen that black "Gorilla" tape used to cover the steering head lock for protection against sand blasting, and it will hold up, if you go light in that area.
I used it myself when I had some rims sand blasted, I used it to protect the Kelsey-Hayes brand and date codes on the inside of the rims. It held up fine to the sand blasting.

But that's out here in the PNW, not in the rust belt; nevertheless, I expect a rebuttal...!

[Cotten]

...nevertheless, I expect a rebuttal...!

At least nobody intentionally edited your post for you with the intent to make you look stupid. This ain't caimag!

....Cotten