Proper adjustment procedure for mousetrap eliminator?

[OckMock]

Anyone here with expert knowledge of proper mousetrap eliminator adjustment?

Seems kinda trial and error to me and am wondering if someone has a tried-and-true adjustment method they can share with me...

As per my adjustments I either get drag on the clutch or a clutch lever thats nearly impossible to pull....or worse yet, preload on the throwout bearing.

Any help would be appreciated.

[RUBONE]

Did you change the clutch springs and plate set-up and re-adjust the clutch pack for proper spring tension? If not the pull will be extremely heavy. The standard springs do not lend themselves well to eliminators. All clutches are adjusted the same, a small amount of free play in the rod so that the throwout bearing is NEVER pre-loaded, and a small amount of free play in the cable so that the cable and associated parts are not under load. That is all, no magic, no secrets. Even with a mousetrap the clutch itself is adjusted the same. only the mousetrap adjustment comes in as a separate factor. It is only a booster, not actually part of the clutch. When you eliminate it you also have to eliminate what it was needed for, heavy clutch pull. If the clutch is not corrected for an eliminator you will never get easy pull.
Robbie

[biker_k]

I have both a mousetrap eliminator and a mousetrap. A couple observations first. The eliminator uses a shorter clutch lever arm on the trans. But, I start the adjustment the same way with the eliminator. Adjust the throw out rod to position the clutch lever arm about 4.5 inches from the shift ratchet if you have one. From that point on, adjust the slack at the lever by adjusting the throwout rod at the clutch with 1/8 turn away from resistance. This should give you a baseline adjustment. Then it's a matter of finding the range of motion you have from engaged to disengaged. If the clutch drags, then start rolling the hub nuts out to eliminate it there first. I had to play with mine for quite sometime before I found the sweet spot.......and then once the bike gets warmed up, it changes. Good luck

[OckMock]

I had to do the same...fuckk with the clutch hub nut tension as well...otherwise Id get drag or a sharp "clank" when I slipped the clutch into gear.

Ive never gotten this setup "perfect." I guess i was looking for a magic bullet...and not a fuck-withit kinda system.

Thanks for the help.

[panhead_kicker]

OckMock,
Are you using one of the plastic retainer rings under your clutch pack?

[Sir_Rat]

If you want to end your clutch problems once and for all...get the Barnett Scorpion clutch. I warn you now,
If you do you will never want to run a stock clutch again...they aren't cheap about $500. But worth every penny.

Just my opinion....Aloha..Mike

[john HD]

...otherwise Id get drag or a sharp "clank" when I slipped the clutch into gear.

how tight is your primary? are the rollers in the hub well lubricated?

john