I'm getting ready to get rid of the mouse trap clutch lever and swap to a rocker clutch with a slap stick on a ratchet top. As you all know, this means getting past the inner primary to access the screws on the ratchet lid to swap out the foot shift rod for the hand shifter. I don't have a clutch puller. I think I can borrow a gear puller Any ideas on the best way to go about this
I have a belt drive if that maters. The clutch definately has to come off right?
Thanks
Also, a long time ago, I heard of a foot clutch (suicide type) that would put you in neutral from first with the last inch of travel. Anyone ever hear of one of these?
If you're interested in converting to a jockey shift, check into V-twin's post about the FX shifter drum, sounds like you pull back to upshift, which seems like would work better than pushing forward...Mike
Post subject: Jockey vs. rachet
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 2:43 pm
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Location: S. Calif.
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Description: A jockey shift is a handle connected to the "jockey lid"
Post by VintageTwin on Jul 4, 2002, 8:41pm
If you didn't know the difference; a jockey shift is a handle (there's even a pre-40's Harley part number for one) connected to the "jockey lid" '37-51 (34804-36; and now replicated by Tedd this year). In '51, the shifter lever (on the lid) changed to a 5/16"-24 threaded hole (available AM) and allows the lever to be secured with one bolt, and no modifications. The jockey lid and rachet tops used a couple of different drums until '72; but with the same shift pattern (dictated by grooves cut into the drum); until a '73-78 (FX) (cast) shift cam was introduced. I don't know if an FX shift cam will work in a jockey top, if not, then your shift pattern will be: back for first, up for neutral, up for second; third; fourth. (You know which gear it's in by the position of the stick; a neutral can be found between every gear.) I may not have all my dates correct, but the re-popped parts are out there.
The next style of jockey shift is the rachet top. If you use the (34019-73) FX (available AM) cast shift cam in the lid, the shift pattern will be: forward for first; back for neutral; back for second; third; fourth. Only one neutral. The '59-'64 rachet top (available AM) has a neutral indicator switch boss, that holds a sending unit to a dash light. The lamp is in the middle of a three-light dash. You can see when you're in neutral. The rachet top is a selector that find the gear before you do. Two opposing spring loaded prawls become the focal-release-point, that unleash the built up torque, via the foot clutch. The rpm; throttle; spring-prawls and foot clutch operate in harmony; and create a sport completely separate from any other Harley-Davidson "ride". You experience unweighting and torque release through curves at relatively slow speeds; something that you won't feel with the traditional hand clutch and foot shift. (It's a bolted changeover. No OEM parts are harmed or destroyed) The shifting mechanism in a rachet top is so fast, that your hand is only on the lever ball for an instant. Most people won't even see you shift. The Saturn-ball [34010-36] is the only way to go (it has a long history). Your fingers catch on the ring. Gas feed is stock, through the handlebars to a Linkert. You turn the gas on...it stays on, until you turn it off.
Leaving our place is a downhill section. When the transmission is cold, sometimes, I use a slightly more than half-way position on the rocker clutch, along with the motors slow matching rpm, to speed-shift between second and third. The slow-turn of the gears and shafts pull the transmission into third like butter. It's just a real good way to wake up in the morning. There's no other motorcycle experience like it. The machine becomes an extension of your mind. Have you ever seen that poster of a rider standing on his (Corbin Gentry) saddle? You know...on his Indian...out in the mesa-desert...arms out ...at about 45 miles an hour? The feeling's not like that, but close.
About the jockey shift, '64 Bob told me,"Aw man.. it doesn't look right on a swing arm.. but it'll look OK on a rigid frame though..." Then I said, "It wouldn't look as good on a '64 (even though the frames are the same) because your headlight is under a cowling. It "fits" my '59 because the headlight is separate". He didn't say anything else about it.
Post by Sidecar on Sept 18, 2002, 2:51pm
I`ve got a rachet top shifter and am having lots of problems with it. My shift pattern is exactly opposite from what you said. First is backwards, forward for neutral/2nd, again for 3rd, again for 4th. Maybe thats the problem ?? I`ve got the thing on a 48.
I`m going to try to reverse it to your pattern and see what happens.
The problems are;
It doesn`t want to go into first.
It wants to go into neutral instead of 2nd.
Third is fine.
4th engages when you turn on the throttle
Maybe this`ll get me up and flying right !!!!
Randy
BTW. I have to move the shifter knob about 5 inches to shift between gears.
Post by VintageTwin on Sept 18, 2002, 5:00pm
It's the shifter drum. You need to replace your (34010-36) "drum" with a shifter cam (34019-73). It's a cast "drum". You can see a picture of it in the 2002 Tedd catalog, pg.206,#47, or in the 1971-'84 H-D "FX" parts book. or heck I'll scan you a j-peg of the parts book page. Custom Chrome or Zodiac probably carries them It's a clean swap out. Keep your old drum....I don't think anyone makes them anymore. This, and only this, will give you a forward for first, back for neutral, back for second,etc.,etc. Welcome to the flying club, and get ready to wear out some foot-clutch rubber pads. Order a couple sets of the rubber pads with your cast shifter-cam.
Post by Sidecar on Sept 18, 2002, 10:01pm
I maybe should have added that this is a Tedd`s 48 Pan kit. So I would have to say that it is not truly a 1948, but close enough for me.
I`m looking at the part # 47 on page 192 in the 01 catalog. I`m going to call for a new catalog.
Could it be that the person that put it together for me installed the shifter incorrectly ??
I`m not sure if it can be installed backwards or not ??
Thanx for your help.
Randy
Post by dirtpandan58 on Sept 19, 2002, 4:38am
Hey Sidecar,
I run the same set up as you, back for first,ahead for the rest. I've had it like that for about 20 yrs.with no problems. I think your shifting drum just needs to be timed,or maybe bent or loose shifting forks. A new drum won't solve your shifting problem without correct timing,just your shifting pattern. You can shorten your throw by shortening your shifting lever. I cut about 3" off mine. It's just long enough to reach it.
Post by VintageTwin on Sept 19, 2002, 5:41am
I said it in "reverse". The shifter cam (cast) on pg.192 of the 2001 catalog #47 (Cast FL [they also mean FX] makes it forward for first, back for second, third, fourth. The drum (slotted) you have, makes it, back for first up for neutral, up for second, third,etc. See if V-Twin can refer you to the shop that builds theirs, if it's a V-Twin complete transmission. Most of their U.S work is done in NY or Conn. Ship it to Stett, if you want it done right, as well. Nothing better than getting it done right the first time, no matter who.
Post by Sidecar on Sept 19, 2002, 2:16pm
I`m going to try a bike shop up the road from me that has been around for at least 30 years. They only work on H-D. I know that they have completely restored quite a few old bikes. They may be able to help me.
I`ll let you know what happens.
Thanx
Randy
Post by VintageTwin on Sept 19, 2002, 4:11pm
The only other thing I didn't mention is about the Saturn ball shift knob. They arrive with just a little tiny (teen-nine-cie) line of mold slag around the outer edge of the ring. You're suppose to "wear" this "release" line off from use....not sand it off with wet-n-dry....that'd be cheating.
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I think I can borrow a gear puller 
Any ideas on the best way to go about this 