4 speed clutch problem

[Scooter]

Can any one tell me the distance the pushrod is supposed to travel when the clutch is engaging and disengaging. When I adjust the pushrod I seem to only have about a quarter of a turn between not having enough friction to kick the motor over and having so much that the bike wants to take off as soon as I shift. right now the pressure plate moves out about 3/16 to 1/4 inch. Fiber disks still have plenty on them. I have the stock 10 spring setup with a five stud clutch hub. Went to long roller bearings instead of staggered.
Thanks in advance.

[kell]

Do you have a hand clutch?
Taking the slack out of the cable might help.

[Scooter]

No, it has a foot clutch so it is a direct link to the arm that controls the clutch. Im just not sur if I am getting the full movement that I should get from it.

[mbskeam]

hello,
on mine I get just over 1/8" throw on the press. plate.
foot clutch set up.
3/16 to 1/4 seams real good, do you have a service book?
you could try a ram jet, the plastic retainer , that goes on the inside of the hub, this holds it in place so that it does not try and walk out, making the clutch drag.
have this on mine, it is still the same one that I put in a very long time ago.
mbskeam

[Scooter]

It always jerked alittle bit at stop lights, but nothing I could not control. I have "The Tamer" on order. It is a similar device like the Ramm Jett. I took the clutch packs out to inspect while I was adjusting the transmission for belt tension. Guess I should have left well enough alone.

[sleeper]

Energydude1-

Since you are pulling the clutch-pak back out, to put in your 'ordered' part.

Lay a good straight-edge across each steel plate, & thoroughly inspect each..every way possible..
Any slight warping can give those very symptoms...
I use Ram-Jett's too w/good success..

my2.3 cents...

[panfreak]

I had almost the same problem, try this;
1. Take your whole clutch assembly off (including hub)
2. Slip the drum (without plates) over the hub and new bearings.
3. It should spin on the bearings quite nicely. Mine was tight after putting new bearings in the old cage, and I didn't notice this at first because it was hard to tell when assembled on tranny. As different sized bearings were unavailable, I honed out my clutch drum slightly until I had a nice fit.

While I was at this, and darned determined to have a smooth clutch once and for all, I noticed that a couple studs were able to wiggle a little. I put plates over to ensure straightness and tack welded the studs on the back of the hub, then sanded smooth so there would be no interference with anything. Now that the studs where going nowhere, I fit the plates over and felt a little binding when sliding up and down. I read somewhere how someone drilled out the holes in the fiber plates so I found a drill bit that was only a 64th larger than the holes and drilled away. This DID NOT make clutch plates rattle around loose on the studs, only enabled them to slip up and down the studs nicely without binding. I wish I could remember the size but I'm not in my shop. Now my clutch operates beautifully, no more dragging. Hope this helps!

I know some will cringe when reading about welding, honing and drilling, but when work is undertaken in a proffessional manner, it doesn't have to be butchery.

[mbskeam]

hello,
and check your your pressure plate also as they can be warped,
and I know warped.......
mbskeam

[Scooter]

It turns out that my belt drive got a little out of alignment when I adjusted the tension. Made the outside edge of the belt slightly looser than the inside which caused the clutch drum to drift out immediatly and put pressure on the plates. Fixed the alignment issue and put "The Tamer" on and man what a difference! I can't believe I rode it like that for sooo long. Seems like a good product. I'll just have to see how long it will hold up.
Thanks for all the responses!