Clutch tech info wanted

[hassmo]

Description: Any good sites out there showing how to remove/replace the clutch and 1 1/2" belt

Any good sites out there showing how to remove/replace the clutch and 1 1/2" belt (tin primary) on a Panhead? Tools, pullers, gotchas, etc. I need to do some research before diving in my first time.

What's a good after market clutch?

TIA,
hassmo

[King]

Hi Hassmo

Getting the belt and clutch off is not a big job. But before you get into this I strongly recommend getting a repair/service manual. I use the repro Harley one. A "Spare Parts" book is also very helpful especially for the blow-up diagrams. Also search this site as there have been many posts on this topic.

I ran a Primo 1.5" belt for a while and here is how I got it off.
1. Loosen up all the tranny bolts, 4 5/8" and 1 9/16" (I have removed the adjuster that screws into the back of the tranny case)
2. Slide the tranny forward as much as it will go
3. Remove the sprocket shaft nut that holds the drive pulley on. Usually an air impact wrench has to be used as the nut will be on too tight to break with a "jam" between the pulley and the belt.
4. I found I could remove the pulley with just a few taps of a hammer and a block of wood, but if that doesn't work a gear puller with enough reach can get behind it or possibly the pulley is tapped for the type of puller that treads into the pulley.
5. Belt and pulley will now slide off the sprocket shaft.

With the stock clutch;
1. Remove the pressure plate adjusting nut
2. Place a large washer on the adjusting screw, one that is large enough to reach out over the pressure plate (I use an old lock hasp strap)
3. Reinstall the adjusting nut and tighten it to take spring pressure off the three studs.
4. Remove the three stud nuts and slide the pressure plate assy off the studs.
5. Now you can remove the friction plates, the steel drive plates, and the clutch shell.

When you reinstall the drive pulley be sure to torque the sprocket shaft nut to the manufacturer's recommendations (mine it was 80 lbs) with the air wrench. I didn't once and fubared up a pulley when the nut loosened.
I've stayed with stock clutch components over the years and they work fine for me but there are aftermarket clutches out there like Barnett's that are good products. If you still have the old ball bearing style hub retainer I would replace it with the roller bearing type and I use one of the "Ramm Jet" retainers on the hub and found that it reduces chatter.

Best of luck.

King

[hassmo]

Thanks King,
The clutch has 5 studs on it, it's starting to chatter, slip and grab a bit when cold. Time to get in there and take care of it before failure. Figure I should replace the belt too since Mr. Murphy will make me do it anyway sometime after I've repaired the clutch. I'll search around a bit more for info and thank you again for the reply.

Maybe I'll start a garage here, and take pic's during the repair for the next newbie.

hassmo

[fourthgear]

hassmo
I think I have photos of removing the primary drive and clutch if you want me to dig them up and put them in the Gallery , tech photos.

[hassmo]

Thanks fourthgear, I'd appreciate that!
no hurries, no worries, I probably won't get going on it for another couple weeks.

thx,
hassmo

[Panacea]

While we're on the subject, has anyone come across a good grease for the big fix long roller bearings? They only give you enough for the first lube job and I like to re-lube about once a year. I tried synthetic grease but it seems to dry out, regular grease seems to sling out onto the clutch plates (I know, don't use so much) The grease they send out with the bearings is the ticket, If I could find it. Mike

[fourthgear]

panacea
I would like some too, I got two of them with the long rollers, that stuff that comes with them is some sticky stuff. I thought i saw it some where ,but can't remember where.

hassmo
I'll look them up and put them in , This clutch has a Clutch tamer type retainer in it also, some thing different.

[panz4ever]

fourthgear, all I've ever used is standard wheel bearing grease. The stuff is so thick you can cut it with a knife. My dad got a can of it from a Mobil Oil station mechanic years ago. Its all he ever used to pack his wheel bearing and any loose needle/roller bearings. I think a company called StayLub makes the same stuff.
Not sure if this is what is called for, but its all I have ever used. Doesn't break down, seems hold up well

[King]

Fourthgear

Thanks for posting those excellent pics.

King