Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
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Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
My clutch is working well, but has always been a bit tight to pull in on the lever. (I don't have a mousetrap). I just replaced my clutch discs, which feels great, but didn't help the tightness.
I was wondering if the later (longer) style springs will help make my clutch easier to pull in.
These are the ones I'm considering, but in the description below it mentions that they're for a belt drive. I'm assuming they're also fine for my chain drive?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6300282
Thanks in advance!
I was wondering if the later (longer) style springs will help make my clutch easier to pull in.
These are the ones I'm considering, but in the description below it mentions that they're for a belt drive. I'm assuming they're also fine for my chain drive?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6300282
Thanks in advance!
Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
The -68 clutch springs are easier to pull than the early -41 springs.
VPH-D
VPH-D
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Those are for "exposed" belt drive. Because they're chrome.
Get the J&P Part: 630-100 instead.
Later (post foot clutch and mouse trap) are longer and thinner, making them easier to pull but with the same end pressure.
Get the J&P Part: 630-100 instead.
Later (post foot clutch and mouse trap) are longer and thinner, making them easier to pull but with the same end pressure.
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Thank you for the reply. Are you sure that the 630-100 are the longer style? It doesn't mention the length in the description.Get the J&P Part: 630-100 instead.
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
In 1968 H-D came out with the softer pull clutch without a mousetrap. At the same time they changed from a 3-1/2 disc clutch to a 5 disc clutch. This allowed the softer springs to control a clutch with much greater friction area than the previous type, so no loss of clutch action with the soft springs, and generally a milder engagement with the 5 plate assembly. When using an aftermarket performance clutch such as Barnett the springs can be backed off even slightly more with no slippage issues and a softer pull. The combination of soft springs with the early clutch pack usually works fine, but the extra plate of the later type makes it a better overall unit, with a higher reserve of grip.
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Thank Rubone for taking the time to explain. I've also installed the 5-pin clutch hub, so It sounds like I'm on the right track. I just bought the ones I mentioned. When I install them, I believe I should set the plate at 1-1/16" opposed to the 31/32" right?
I have another guy on Chop Cult forum telling me it won't work. I don't understand:
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47172
Here's a pic of my clutch as it sits now.
I have another guy on Chop Cult forum telling me it won't work. I don't understand:
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47172
Here's a pic of my clutch as it sits now.
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
NOT 5 pin, 5 PLATE. personally I feel the 5 pin hubs are a waste of time and money. Much easier to get even pull with a 3 pin.
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Guy on the Chop forum is wrong. It will work just fine.
Even with the longer, thinner springs, set to 31/32"
Even with the longer, thinner springs, set to 31/32"
Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Oh, and while you're at it, get the right hardware to mount the rear of the inner primary cover...
VPH-D
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
You don't like those boltsVPH-D wrote:Oh, and while you're at it, get the right hardware to mount the rear of the inner primary cover...
VPH-D
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Thank youSchwee wrote:Guy on the Chop forum is wrong. It will work just fine.
Even with the longer, thinner springs, set to 31/32"
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
The rear inner primary bolts, upper and lower have springs washers and a cotter pin. The way you have it bolted will cause the inner primary cover to crack.
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Re: Clutch Springs (early vs. late)
Has anyone actually used the diaphram spring clutch, and does it give any better results than the coil spring ones? in particular, selection of neutral and pull required at the lever?
I've always stayed away from foot shift machines, preferring foot clutch operation as that was how the clutch was originally designed to be used. But, I'm considering foot shift for my next build and would like to know about these things
Thanks,
DL
I've always stayed away from foot shift machines, preferring foot clutch operation as that was how the clutch was originally designed to be used. But, I'm considering foot shift for my next build and would like to know about these things
Thanks,
DL