Can't get my trans into neutral

[Mr Mach1]

I've been having a clutch issuse with my 49 pan. I put it away for the winter to work on my cars. At that time I felt the clutch was noisy but the bigger issue was I couldn't get a full pull on the clutch lever. After messing with the mouse trap to my witts end I decided to the bike to bed for the winter. When I tried to start it I couldn't find neutral. Had to remove the clutch to move it out of the garage. I'm running a hand clutch and foot shift just to be clear. I get shifts all the way down. One click up should be neutral I thought but its still in gear. No matter what position the shifters in its in gear. I've tried rolling the bike in gear a few feet forward and back. This is the latest of my ongoing madness.

[58flh]

Maybe a check under the lid is in order.-Sheck the druns timing & make-sure its spot-on--Check shift-clutches & forks! for proper running clearance!-(they will loosen-up if not tightened-up using blue loc-tite!-& just s drop is plenty.)But check simple things first!--pull the détente & make-sure its not burred-up.& clutchdiscs for sticking together over the winter.Is the P-rod adj. correctly -Do you have enuff freeplay at the handle?----K-base & your Manual can get her done!.Is it a OEM tranny????/& LID???---Just throwing a few Ideas at you to check!--You have the clutch apart already!-Why couldent you pull the lever to disengage & push bike out??----If you cant shift into Neautral with the M-TRAP hooked-up try unhooking it & Ratchet the lid by hand to see if it stopd in N!--If yes then to much stroke on the M-Trap!--Respectfully---RICHIE

[Mr Mach1]

Hey Richie,
The trans is OEM as is the lid. I changed the springs and pawl in the shifter when the trans was out and all worked well. It shifted well after installaton. I was never able to get a full pull on the lever. There was aways too much slack even with all the adjustment in. I replaced the cable but still had the same problem. I pulled the clutch to check the length of the rod ( whiched seemed right ) . Put it back together. Same problem. Pull the lever and the clutch wouldnt release fully. With the engine running all I got when I pulled the lever was a lot of noise. I cant pull the cover without removing the oil tank. I recall that involves removing the rear fender and wheel. Maybe im wrong?

[RUBONE]

Mr Mach1,
Which release fork is on your clutch lever (inside trans)? Which throwout bearing do you have? What sort of tension do you have on the drum detent? Did you time the ratchet cover when you replaced springs and pawls? There should not be any physical reason for lack of clutch throw unless there are non compatible parts installed, or things installed incorrectly.
And the easy way to get at a transmission is to pull it. It comes out the left side after the primary is removed, no need to touch oil tanks, fenders, or wheels. And no need to disassemble any tranny parts before pulling. However the ratchet timing can be done in place, just the primary covers and drive need to be off.

[Mr Mach1]

Thanks Rubone. I wish I had answers to your questions but I don't. I'll jack it up and pull the trans. Looks kina like a tight wiggle. Replacing the fork, bearing, rod and clutchall at the same time with matched components.. I want to do this only once. Any advice on where to get the parts?

[58flh]

MACH---THATS the HARD-PART!--My mixer is all OEM!--My kicker took a dump & I needed new replacement BUSHINGS gear rod THE WHOLE SHOOTIN match!--(I got a drag-Specialties kit!)-It was JUNK!--I ended-up using all my old OEM gears as nothing was wrong with them besides the BUSHINGS WEAR!--So I replaced EVERY bushing from the DS-KIT,& pressed out the new bushings from their shitty gears & used them in mine!--After reaming all to size & using the NEW SPRING!-(its the olny thing that was food besides ,bushings ,& fasteners!,Kocking tab washers.).Its now a great shifting tranny!.--BAKER make good STUFF but VERY PRICEY!.--YOUR CLUTCH!--Pull the pack out & drill your discs > 1/64 oversize!--Make-sure the steels are flat!--& place each one in the drum & move in & out!--If any resistence at all ,DO this!--(I don't even check them -I do this automatically whenever putting a new clutch in dor me or a customer!--Take a Millsmooth file & file all the sharp corners that travel in the hubs channels!.--File all of them so no SHARP corners left!--(This will be so minimal BUT they wont CATCH on anything!.--I should of said Clean it all to eat-off it stage!.-So now your steels are relieved & discs are 1/64-oversize on the holes!--Check every steel for ease of movement & disc for any hang-ups!--If a disc stud is scarred-up with deep grooves!--(replace it!)-Must be smooth!).Id you have Kevlar discs.-Soak them overnight in ATF!--(the 15-min. soak does nothing & is done the first time you let the clutch out!).Wipe them with a clean rag & install!--By soaking overnight they will NOT EXPAND OR GROW!.--They simply take enudd in that's so little I would bet that .003-is ALOT!.-BUT this makes all the difference between a GRABBY CLUTCH & JUMPY or Chattering whatever you want to call it!.The BASKET SHOULD not WALK!--I have never used a TAMER or any other gadjet that don't belong!--(I have thrown tamers away when doing a clutch for a customer!)--Im not saying DONT EVER USE THEM!--(HEY whatever keeps you going is what counts!-If you depend on your bike for daily use-do whatever it takes!).--BUT if you have a wobbler that just means you need to DIX the problem!.By doing this so far -Before final assembly -take a brush & put grease on all the studs & channels in the basket!.-(very-LIGHT COATING!).Push the first steel in & wipe all excess that spews out!--Then put together as you normaly would!.--This has given myseld & many others MILES of trouble-free operation!--ADJ. as per manual!--(If the lid is timed right & forks are ADJ. correctly/I see no problem in achieving a good runner!--Using aftermarket stuff usually is the culprit!--It takes more work to get REPOP to work properly!---Sorry dor the LONG EX.--BUT I hope this helps you & anybody else with similar problems!--Respectfully---RICHIE

[1951 adam]

So the bike shifted before the winter and now it doesn't ?
Get the rear wheel up disconnect the linkage, as you turn the wheel, try and turn the shift drum and see if it will run through the gears. Sounds like there's more to it.
Adam

[RUBONE]

What year is the ratchet top on it? Could it have an FX top? If so the drum could be a reverse pattern and you can't find neutral because the gears are working backwards and you are looking for neutral between 3rd and high!!
Could you actually ride it before putting it away?

[Mr Mach1]

The top is 50's I'm pretty sure. I had neutral when I put it together. A friend gave me a used puck that I took the springs and pawl from. Maybe it was too used and died on me

[Cotten]

Mr. Mach1!

I've never owned anything but "handshakers".

But hey Richie!
Didn't you recentlly go through a problem finding fourth for just a pawl spring issue?

....Cotten

[RUBONE]

The top is 50's I'm pretty sure. I had neutral when I put it together. A friend gave me a used puck that I took the springs and pawl from. Maybe it was too used and died on me

Did you time the ratchet to the shift shaft? If not right it will not allow full movement of the shifter mechanism. But it basically still sounds like a clutch problem is your biggest issue.

[1951 adam]

You should be able to move the drum by hand and feel if it will engage, check the manual to make sure all is correctly installed.
Adam

[1951 adam]

The top is 50's I'm pretty sure. I had neutral when I put it together. A friend gave me a used puck that I took the springs and pawl from. Maybe it was too used and died on me

Did you time the ratchet to the shift shaft? If not right it will not allow full movement of the shifter mechanism. But it basically still sounds like a clutch problem is your biggest issue.

Robbie's right...sounds like something else. Clutch
Adam

[Mr Mach1]

Yes I did. Read up on how in the tech section. It worked fine in the bench and on the bike for a while. Now that I'm thinking on it this was an issue when I got the bike. It was hard to get into neutral then but I didn't think much on it as the drag pipes make it sound like a small airplane and the 3" open belt primary seemed like an open invitation to mangle my leg. Another reason fir new springs and pawl or should I get a complete new luck?

[58flh]

COTTEN!---Sorry for the late reply,---BUT yes,I had the 2-springs come-out in 8-pieces!.---I pulled the lid & rebuilt it,retimed it & had a look-see inside the mixer & All I can say--I did a complete rebuild 12yrs ago!--& This mixer is Looking like NEW!--I use the bike a lot & change my fluid 2-times a season!--I use VALVOLENE 60wt. The same as the motor!.I have a magnetic drainplug on the trans & I never got anything but crud that wiped away with my finger.--Im a firm believer in FREQUENT oil changes!--I go 2000 before I change it!. I lose about less then 3/4s of a QT.every 4-500 miles from my chain-oiler!--Fellas THEY MUST be WET & SHINEY!--IF not your chains are probably toast!.--I go thru a rear chain every season & my primary gets a new one every other year.BUY QUALITY CHAINS & Boil them in grease!--I tried a CC-RIDER primary chain 1-year cause my money was not right & it was $48!--NEVER AGAIN! IT was shot at 11K & I pushed it to 13K SLOWLY!.I have found DIAMOND work great for 2-seasons.---SORRY for off-topic Mr Mach--But as was said ,it does sound like something in the clutch dept.!-----Respectfully----RICHIE