Finnicky clutch

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1964FLDUO
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Finnicky clutch

#1

Post by 1964FLDUO »

I cant seem to get my clutch to fully release, and it is shifting HARD or not shifting sometimes. It was shifting great, but the clutch was grabby when engaging, and the bike would creep at stops. I put a tamer on it and that was where my problem started. After putting the tamer on it wouldnt shift as smooth but it wasnt grabby any more. I decided to try new clutch plates so I got Barnetts aluminum frictions that add disks. I decided that i would try to run the new Barnetts without the tamer to improve the shifting to where it was pre-tamer. Unfortunately it didnt work that way, and it kept shifting hard without the tamer. At this point I thought it was the tranny so I went through it, replaced shifter clutches, gears, bearings, forks, and anything else worn. I changed back to original style clutch pack and drive plates with buffers and it still wont shift smoothly! I am going in circles and cant seem to find the solution. Could it be my tranny is not properly oriented in relation to the engine? Oh I am running a belt drive BDL type inside primary. I know what your going to say, put a chain back on it, but I had it shifting smooth before nd I know it can be done again.
1950Panhead
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#2

Post by 1950Panhead »

I cant seem to get my clutch to fully release
Select 1st gear, pull clutch, push bike with engine off.
Some drag is normal, if cannot push clutch is not releasing.
Check clutch center adjustment is 1/2 turn free.
Check bearings between inner and outer hub.
Remove two plates and repeat test.
Remove all the plates and repeat test.
Jerry
JR JOHNSON
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#3

Post by JR JOHNSON »

hi,when you adjust the pressure plate,pull the clutch and watch the plate,if not coming out square,you have to adjust the ,and hope you have a 3 nut or finger,other than the 5 finger ,but watch it to see if it release Evan,not uneven,adjust the nuts to let it pull out even as you can. i be leave its 31/32 between the spring retainer,to the plate.but you should be able to turn the clutch center by your hand.lot of those plats or warped,but this should work with this.........with respect...JR
1964FLDUO
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#4

Post by 1964FLDUO »

1950Panhead wrote:
I cant seem to get my clutch to fully release
Select 1st gear, pull clutch, push bike with engine off.
Some drag is normal, if cannot push clutch is not releasing.
Check clutch center adjustment is 1/2 turn free.
Check bearings between inner and outer hub.
Remove two plates and repeat test.
Remove all the plates and repeat test.
Jerry
Pushrod screw is 1/2 turn free, you can push the bike in 1st with clutch released.
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#5

Post by 58flh »

I would pull the whole clutch-pak out!--Clean everything to the eat off it stage. Now try each disc & plate to see if there is any interference!-I would automaticaly drill the discs a 1/64 over--this way it wont get stuck or bind on the 3 ADJ. rods--or 5 whichever you have! Check plates for heat-warp/I always use steel! You might have to hit them with a file where they travel on the chanel,if you find 1-binding--just file all of them IT WONT HURT NOTHING!--I have never used a tamer!/but have installed them on customers bikes because they wanted them!-ADJ. clutch so your kicker wont slip! & turn each nut the same/as far as freeplay at the grip,I always get 1/8 never more then a 1/4!-YOU now should be able to start bike & PULL clutch in & run all the gears & back to neautral! IF still shifting hard play with the ADJ. for pushrod!--Take your time you will get there! (also there is a measurement of 31/32 to the outer lip! THIS is not always correct, especialy with different manufacturers clutch,new pushrod etc. VERY rarely do I end-up with that 31/32,I get close it is a good starting point! BUT only you will know if your slipping when kicking or dragging at a light! ALSO I really never use alum.-plates/yea they get rid of heat faster ,but at what cost!--They will warp quick I can tell you that!--GOOD-LUCK--RICHIE 8)
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#6

Post by 1964FLDUO »

I did drill the aluminum plates 1/64 over on all of them because they were a tight fit, they still were dragging. I was running the drive disks without buffers or rattlers, but the chatter was annoying so I put plates with rattlers on. Also I am running a aluminum pressure plate instead of the original steel. I did notice the steel frictions I put on were a bit tight on the fingers, I will have to pull all of that off. Should I put the steel pressure plate back on or will the aluminum fly?
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#7

Post by JR JOHNSON »

put the steel pressure plate back on,i tried that aluminum plate,never work right to me,read my 1st post and try it,I've been running those aluminum ,Kevlar clutch plates sense they came out in the 80s,still running them to this day,the holes are egg shape,but my drive hub studs are not beat up,my 59 had steel plates,there so beat up,surprise the plates don't hang up.did your problem start when you put that aluminum plate on? also those anti chatter plates made in wherever.are useless,little balls will go away................with respect......JR
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#8

Post by mbskeam »

is the hub run out okay, is the key a bit too proud in the keyway? this will make the hub wobble.
you might try a ramjet, if you have a lot of in/out of the basket when the clutch is disengaged, this gives you the grab and creep.
best 5 bucks I spent .....
1964FLDUO
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#9

Post by 1964FLDUO »

JR JOHNSON wrote:put the steel pressure plate back on,i tried that aluminum plate,never work right to me,read my 1st post and try it,I've been running those aluminum ,Kevlar clutch plates sense they came out in the 80s,still running them to this day,the holes are egg shape,but my drive hub studs are not beat up,my 59 had steel plates,there so beat up,surprise the plates don't hang up.did your problem start when you put that aluminum plate on? also those anti chatter plates made in wherever.are useless,little balls will go away................with respect......JR
Problem started before the aluminum plate, the anti chatter plates are made in the US. And I can turn the clutch by hand.

mbskeam wrote:is the hub run out okay, is the key a bit too proud in the keyway? this will make the hub wobble.
you might try a ramjet, if you have a lot of in/out of the basket when the clutch is disengaged, this gives you the grab and creep.
best 5 bucks I spent .....
It doesnt grab or creep anymore, it launches fine, but shifts like a pig. It shifted great when it was grabby and had creep.
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#10

Post by 58flh »

MBSKEAM & JR JOHNSON bring up both good advice!---I would use the steel plate -(but check for warpage!)-& def. the runout is important as if to much play, you will have trouble that you explained!--Change tranny fluid & look for bronze color in good light & run a magnet in it & see what sticks ,if anything just for shits & giggles!-FOLLOW WHAT was said & you should be good to go!--Also I always ran the rattlers till this year!-I got a kevlar clutch with new steels & still never ran a tamer!,& Have no problems!--Remember when you tighten the 3 spring-pressure nuts you might have to run 1 tighter then others to have a better or less wobble to the plate & therefore MORE EVEN disengagement! & Engagement!---SO that means warpage, but I know alot of bikes running without problems this way! IF you have a .125 of warp-then NO you cant do it, but a slight wobble can be compensated for!---GOOD-LUCK as ALWAYS---RICHIE 8)
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#11

Post by steve_wood »

One other thing to check:

Make sure your primary chain (or belt) is not too tight. Same goes for main drive chain.
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#12

Post by 1964FLDUO »

Checked belt and drive chain, definitely have adequate slack.
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#13

Post by 1964FLDUO »

Also forgot to add that I am running a Nylatron and the replacement hub studs feel like they might be cocked. When you first put a disk on it is a tight fit but frees up the further on it goes. Tried to check alignment of hub and it seems square to the motor shaft. I might pull the replacement hub and put the 65-later hub back on with the old frictions and drive disks and work my way out from there. It had shovel springs on it when I pulled it, not sure why because they compress about the same amount as a pan spring, but require more compression to apply the same pressure.
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#14

Post by 1964FLDUO »

Found another interesting thing, the hole in the hub on the 65 hub is larger than that on the replacement. The 65 hub measures .9970" on the big end and .7850 on the small end. The replacement hub measures .9350" on the big end and .7795" on the small end. The 65 hub is a original harley part the replacement earlier style hub is repop. Could this be a problem? Maybe the replacement is sticking out further because its smaller bore prevents it from going on the mainshaft as far.
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Re: Finnicky clutch

#15

Post by mbskeam »

this is why I asked about they key to keyway depth on the repop hub.
been there done this...LOL
the hub will bobble all around if the taper does not seat all the way
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