StrIpped Shifter Puck Screws

[Mr Mach1]

I found two of the allen head puck screws are stripped. I've tried larger sizes including metric but someone did a job on them. My first thought was to drill the heads off, remove the cover then I should to be able to get a vice grip on , Just didn"t know if they were hardened screws or maybe made from unobtainium or something. I also can't get the sprocket nut off. I don't have any deed sockets over 1 1/2" . I tried a pipe wrench but of course the shaft turns . Even tried tapping the corner with a blunt chisel.

[bubba]

i sometimes have good luck with lefthanded drill bits. soak the screws with some pb blaster. the wipe it all away before drilling.the lefthand bit will sometimes catch the bolt and screw it out.

[caschnd1]

I've had luck using an ez-out on small Allen screws. They should be easy to replace.

I use a length of old chain around the sprocket and held fast in a vice. You can also remove the transmission lid and engage both shifter clutches simultaneously. This will lock the transmission. Left hand threads on that nut.

-Craig

[Dave_R]

Another way to lock the sprocket that I do is use a 3 or 4 inch "C" clamp and put it on only the sprocket towards the back of the transmission. Tighten real good on the sprocket only. The sprocket will still "float" a little, but the body of the "C" clamp will go up against the transmission case and stop the sprocket.

I use this especially when the transmission is still on the bike.

I've also made this deep socket by taking a 2" socket, cut it in half, and welded a 3 to 4 inch piece of 2" Dia. muffler pipe as a spacer between the two halves. Then, grind the face flat, so that the socket taper is gone. This gives more gripping since the nut is so thin. I got the pipe at a local Midas shop from their scrap bin for free.

Just another idea since I am cheap!

Dave R.

[Bosheff]

Those allen head bolts are soft. Just drill em out and you should be in business. Replacements are still available. Lock the tranny in two gears and you should be able to remove the sprocket nut with a pipe wrench if that's all ya got to work with. As previously mentioned, yer workin with a left hand thread. Don't forget to install the drive gear spacer key....bosheff

[Mr Mach1]

Those allen head bolts are soft. Just drill em out and you should be in business. Replacements are still available. Lock the tranny in two gears and you should be able to remove the sprocket nut with a pipe wrench if that's all ya got to work with. As previously mentioned, yer workin with a left hand thread. Don't forget to install the drive gear spacer key....bosheff

Those screws are butter soft. They drilled out easily. Now I've got a different problem, With the trans together and puck replaced I can only go up or down one gear. I can feel the drum move once then the shifter just ratchets. As I don't want to have to remove the trans later I pulled the cover. With the cover in hand it shifts fine. I see the drum is ratcheting fully. The gears and shift forks all move freely when turned by hand. The oil is kinda suspect. Looks to me like it has water suspended in it. Never saw good oil this color. I also bent the small tin cover. Can I get a new one?

[caschnd1]

That looks like Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil. You don't need anything that heavy (or expensive) in your transmission, but it will do the job. It does look a little brown. Not sure if it's water though. Here is what mine looked like when I opened it up back in September...

trans1.jpg

Even in Arizona you can get some moisture in there. It was very evident under the kicker cover with the tan colored sludge...

trans2.jpg

Sounds like maybe you need to adjust the rachet mechanism. Here is a screen capture of the instructions if you don't have them...

trans3.jpg

[RUBONE]

When you were trying to shift the gearbox were you rotating the shafts at different speeds? If not you are pissing in the wind as the only way it can shift and all the various dogs line up is when it is in motion! Otherwise the shifter clutches and dogs are at odds with each other.
Robbie

[Mr Mach1]

When you were trying to shift the gearbox were you rotating the shafts at different speeds? If not you are pissing in the wind as the only way it can shift and all the various dogs line up is when it is in motion! Otherwise the shifter clutches and dogs are at odds with each other.
Robbie

I can understand that shafts beed to move to align themselves but If I shut down in fourth gear how can it get back down into neutral ? When I shifted it I didn't turn the shaft. I thought it would work like the 4 speed in my car. When I first got the bike and tried to start it I had great difficulty finding neutral. I shifted then rolled and repeated many times. I found it twice and could start it. Before tear down it was hopless. THe new puck did at least get me a gear change up & down.

[RUBONE]

It does not work anywhere near what the four speed in your car does. Your car trans has synchros in it. The H-D box is a sliding clutch/dog arrangement. When you stop in fourth it may or may not shift down easily depending on where tall the pieces are when they stop. By feathering the clutch the mainshaft spins slowly allowing things to line up. Ever try to shift a car or truck into reverse and it doesn't want to go so you depress and release the clutch a time or two which allows the internal parts to move around and then it will shift? Same concept. It sounds like you need to learn to ride this thing. Don't try to re-invent it. And if you are having trouble finding neutral it is the clutch, not the gearbox 99% of the time!
Robbie

[Mr Mach1]

It does not work anywhere near what the four speed in your car does. Your car trans has synchros in it. The H-D box is a sliding clutch/dog arrangement. When you stop in fourth it may or may not shift down easily depending on where tall the pieces are when they stop. By feathering the clutch the mainshaft spins slowly allowing things to line up. Ever try to shift a car or truck into reverse and it doesn't want to go so you depress and release the clutch a time or two which allows the internal parts to move around and then it will shift? Same concept. It sounds like you need to learn to ride this thing. Don't try to re-invent it. And if you are having trouble finding neutral it is the clutch, not the gearbox 99% of the time!
Robbie

Ok so it's like the out drive in my boat. So then it was operating properly, great. Now if I can get it back together I'm golden.

If sounds like I'm an ignorant rider it's cause I am. Thirty years ago I rode my first bike. It was a Honda 350. I took about 150 feet into a chain link fence. In the excitement of the first 50 feet I forgot all about the hand controls. Twenty five years ago my second ride made it half a block. That's it, about 600 feet of riding experience.

[RUBONE]

That's it, about 600 feet of riding experience.

Then my recommendation is BEFORE you even try to ride this bike take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation beginner rider course. It will get you on the right track, potentially save your life, and keep the new vintage bike upright where it belongs. Riding is to be taken seriously at all times!
Robbie

[Mr Mach1]

That's it, about 600 feet of riding experience.

Then my recommendation is BEFORE you even try to ride this bike take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation beginner rider course. It will get you on the right track, potentially save your life, and keep the new vintage bike upright where it belongs. Riding is to be taken seriously at all times!
Robbie

That my friend is a given. I've already consulted on where to get it. I can't afford to die. I owe too much money. I did the same thing before I took my boat out of the dock. Made the world of difference.