Kicker spring starter broken on my 51 FL

[King]

HI All

Yesterday I broke the kick starter spring on my 51 FL. I researched Palmer and the HD Manual but did not find any good data on how to replace the it Any advice will be appreciated.

I also noted that the starter shaft bushings are quite worn. Are they a problem to replace?

Thanks

King

[DuoDave]

The spring is easy to replace. Unbolt and pull off the kicker arm, take off the chrome spring cover (if you have one). Remove the broken spring and slip the new one over the kicker shaft. You just need to put some tension on the spring so it will hook over the bolt it locates on. The bushes are not too bad to replace. You will need to remove the outer cover. It is better to press out the old bushes rather than hammer them out. It helps if you gently heat the cover around the bushes. Reverse the process to fit the new bushes. There is an 0 ring between the two bushes which is very easy to tear up when refitting the cover. Make sure the 0 ring is well lubricated and gently ease the cover back on.

[caschnd1]

The procedure might be a little different in King's case. He said it's a '51FL. Didn't those still have the one piece kick arm? What DuoDave suggested is the exact proceedure for a trans where the kick arm comes off the shaft. I imagine that it's similar for the one-piece arm/shaft though.

[DuoDave]

Quite right, my mistake. I think HD switched to the two piece kicker for 1954. I guess it means that the outer cover has to come of so you can undo the nut that holds the starter gear and withdraw the starter shaft to fit the new spring. If you have to do that, it definitely makes sense to replace the bushes at the same time.

[Cotten]

Bushing replace ment is easy: just knock out the old ones with an appropriate drift or old socket, then squeeze the new ones (greased) in from each side until just a few thou projects.

If you do not have a press, then sometimes a large vise will do. If even more primitive than that, try a 8" piece of 1/2" threaded rod and two nuts and washers.

Most new bushings are already pre-sized pretty close, but often turn out sloppy on a worn shaft. New kickarms are pricey, and ugly, so if have access to a large lathe, have the shaft cut true again, and undersized bushings as well, then go for it.
A precise honed fit after installation will not only give a longer life, it also will minimize oil dripping to burn on the pipe below.

[King]

Thanks Guys

Yes I do have the one piece kicker. So I removed the cover and pulled it out. The only pain in that operation was getting the clutch arm off as it has very minimial clearance under the oil bag/battery box.

I noticed the kicker shaft is galled so I'm going to try and follow Cotten's advice and resize it. Great tip on the threaded shaft and nuts.

But since the starter is disassembled I am toying with the idea of installing the 1" longer "geezer kicker". Does any one know if they fit with out hitting the muffler (stock)?

Another question that comes up now that it is disassembled. How much slack should there be in the throwout bearing? Mine is a bit loose.

Thanks again,

king

[Cotten]

If you have no intentions toward staying "correct", then it is certainly an easy shortcut to install a later two-piece kicker. I do not believe the longer arm is available any other way.

Every muffler clearance seems different.

The original conical throwout bearings can last indefinitely, as they have balls in them that can take may times the workload they experience when compressing the clutch.
The looseness is merely the nature of the twopiece assembly of races around the balls.
No doubt someone out there has un-rolled the retaining lip and replaced the balls on theirs, re-bezelling for a tighter quieter action, but I'm not that patient any more.
Just don't bother with the modern sandwiched radial roller.