shift linkage questions, 65 pan

[northdog]

Hey all. New here. I've been digging through the info here for awhile, as I get this Ol pan up and running. She's in decent shape, just came to me after being parked for some time. I rebuilt the s&s e carb, no issues there.
My issue is with the shift linkage. When I got the bike the bolt and nut on the forward end of the linkage was contacting the cylinder when the shift lever was actuated, making a loud sound and clearly not a good thing. I tried to adjust the heim joint but it's siezed on there pretty good. The rear end of the linkage is tucked down in there and I can't figure out how to get to it without tearing off the case?. In my manual it doesn't seem to specify a procedure for removing the shift linkage.
If there's a way, I'd like to remove the shift linkage and break that heim joint loose or replace it.
I don't think the linkage is stock.
My first harley.

[RUBONE]

The only way to remove the linkage from the transmission are is with the primary cover removed, which involves removing the entire primary drive and clutch assemblies. The factory connection is a threaded eyelet on the shifter end with a shoulder bolt attaching it to the shifter. The tranny end is a fork with a solid pin. You can see what the factory parts look like in the parts books part of the Documents section on this site.

[northdog]

Well, i think it is stock after all. I cant break that threaded eyelet loose without torquing on the forked tranny end. I got it soaked in pb blaster, and i will take a look at it this evening. it wouldnt hurt to yank it all apart and rebuild it, but i dont know if i am ready for that right now! Every thing I have done so far has resulted in a secondary project, like rebuilding the carb led to an entire fuel system overhaul and revealed a few bugs in the system. I would love to get this shifting right and get some miles in while the summer sun is shining on us here in the pacific northwest. I am a full time electronic tech, a single dad, an amateur boxer and a guitar player. If i get this old girl running right I will proudly add Harley rider to that list. I tried to add pictures but i have to reduce the file size somehow .

thanks for the tips, thanks for reading. Cheers to all.

[VPH-D]

Is it possible your shifter lever bracket is bent upward? I can have a look at my 65 tonight.
VPH-D

[northdog]

The shoulder bolt at the forward end of the linkage is contacting the cylinder when down shifting, so I thought something must have been bent or installed wrong. I took the bracket assembly, including the kick stand, off and cleaned it up and compared it to pictures and it all looked straight. I cleaned it up and re installed it to find no improvement. Switching the position of the linkage to the other side of the lever threw off the alignment, and switching the bolt and nut around made it worse. So I am a bit stumped.

[northdog]

Heres the best picture of it I have right now, I am at work...shhhhhh!

[Bigincher]

Where in the PNW are you?
I have seen the problem you describe, and in that case it was the face of the casting which is the outboard section of the front motor mount casting, where the three bolts hold the shift bracket/jiffy stand. Somehow the face of the casting 'moves' over time. It's a real pain to properly check that alignment, but a reasonable 'fix' might be to add a shim at the top bolt(s) which would give the shift linkage some clearance.
Another solution would be to add heat and bend the bracket, if it isn't already bent the wrong way, in which case you would be straightening it.

[northdog]

Im in Portland. I took a good look at the bracket and how its aligned with the rest of the hardware and it does appear to be bent inward a bit. Not like it got dropped or damaged, thats a hefty chunk of metal that bracket. Just enough of a misalignment to push that linkage into the engine cylinder. I will remove it again and attempt to heat and bend it into shape. Thanks all.

By the way, what is the typical clearance there at the shoulder bolt to the cylinder?

[kfelt]

Northdog, my stock '65 clearance between the side of the rod end and the second from bottom cylinder fin is 3/16 of an inch. Whether or not my bracket is bent I don't know but there is plenty of clearance.

[VPH-D]

It's hard to tell, but the chrome shift lever in your picture look to be aftermarket.
VPH-D

[northdog]

It may very well be aftermarket, I was looking at it trying to find an alignment mark, as mentioned in my service manual, and i couldn't find one. Is the original a smooth shaft where the lever arm attaches at? Some ive seen on google searches are smooth, mine is notched. Looking at the parts catalog on the document page here it looks notched.But the shift linkage does not match what I see on the bike, no lock nut in my case...

Also, my kick pedal came flying off!!! The rubber bit just decided it didnt want to be around and jumped clean off there! Gotta replace that, or fix it if I can.

[Bigincher]

It may very well be aftermarket... .

I think he meant the 'arm', not the rod.
It could all be aftermarket, I don't think any of that came from the factory with chrome plating.

[northdog]

Ah, no chrome from the factory..ok. Whew boys, Ive got alot to learn! Wish me luck this weekend I will get it running!

[Bigincher]

No chrome cylinder base nuts from the factory, either.

[VPH-D]

I just remembered the shoulder bolt was last used in 64. The 65s had a snap ring to fit on a stud on the lever. However, either style will work...
VPH-D