Crank arm
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Re: Crank arm
well i tried posting from my phone, first time for that hope i can get some pictures up. anyway bike has been sitting awhile it is a 58 flh with fresh motor and trans . the starter crank is not moving . i started to get into it looking through the manual etc. i took the derby cover off to take a lookfrom that side and pulled the clutch lever in andreached across and the crank will move freely and rachets back but without the clutch pulled it wont budge. I took the fill screw out and the fluid is a little low. Thanks chuck p.s. I will be going to the knowledge base hoping to find some similar symptoms.
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Re: Crank arm
I would pull the plugs and try a roll it in gear. Dump some oil in those cylinders, I don't know how long it's been sitting . If it's ratcheting with the clutch disengaged , something's binding.
Adam
Adam
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Re: Crank arm
If the starter crank bushing was replaced when the trans was worked on, it's possible that the bushing is too tight on the crank arm. I would investigate that after I checked that the engine can turn freely, following 1951 adam's suggestion.
If it turns out that the starter crank bushing is the problem, ream it out so that the crank can turn without binding.
If it turns out that the starter crank bushing is the problem, ream it out so that the crank can turn without binding.
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Re: Crank arm
If it kicks through with the clutch disengaged, it isn't the kicker cover bushing. Try rolling the engine over by means of the compensating sprocket or the nut that secures the motor sprocket on the motor sprocket shaft. By doin this you can isolate the engine or the trans....bosheff
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Re: Crank arm
But... the mainshaft rotates, so IDT it's in the transmission. Releasing the clutch engages the primary, so it's at the clutch drum or forward upstream.
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Re: Crank arm
Ahh come on, we talking about a locked up motor?
Pull the plugs add penetrating oil, walk away.
The next day get her rolling down hill & dump the clutch.
Pull the plugs add penetrating oil, walk away.
The next day get her rolling down hill & dump the clutch.
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Re: Crank arm
That's what I'm thinking, but not much info from Chuck.... You out there? A little investigating , should tell you what's wrong. You need to just find out where the bind is.
Adam
Adam
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Re: Crank arm
I appreciate the advice, I have some other concerns , still getting the rear wheel on and chain and wheel adjusted.I also noticed that the guy who set up the clutch had the spring retaining plate cockeyed so I will begoing thru a adjustment there also the clutch lever required extreme force to pull back , I am making good progress but I have to admit im a bit slow, it has been sitting on the lift for a yr. Plus so I have been putting most of my free time in the garage . I dumped some marvel thru the spark plug openning and tommorow will get back at it. Maybe its time to put her on the ground for a spell. Thanks chuck
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Re: Crank arm
Pulled the primary cover to spin the compensator , very tight, tried rolling the rear wheel got a inch maybe less, poured some oil through timming plug hole and used the compensing bar to move of course all the oil I dumped in the top blew back on me, but real problem seems all oil I put through timming plug hole just poured out from behind around the compensator, that probably why it frozzen the oil leaked out at a preety alarming rate . I will pull the inner primary and clutch basket and know more then thanks chuck
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Re: Crank arm
Well the saga continues, while attempting to compress the springs and remove the clutch pac the screw inside the nut sheared off. I backed the 3 nuts out slowly and removed the plates. Good news is that freed the tight crank arm. The puller ihave doesnt seem suitable to pull the hub, any ideas or tool sugestions would be greatly appreciated. I am hopefull the leak eminating from the case does not become a maJOR problem.
P
P