transmission main shaft/kick start gear

[George Greer]

I am in the process of building a 4 speed transmission from a bare case.

This question is about the mainshaft and the kick-start gears.

The main shaft has two keyways machined into it, and the starter gear (tapered one) has only one machined slot into it.

The gear does have the little ball in that matches the older style clutch release bearing. A search of the knowledge base showed me what the ball was for.

All the photos that I have looked at only show's one keyway slot machined in the gear.

I will take photos of the transmission build as I proceed with the build. (but I am slow).

Would it hurt to run the gear with only one key.........or should I look for one that has the two slots machined into it.

If anyone has one.......

Thanks,

George

PS, the gear that I have looks like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KICK-STARTER-CL ... c5&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[58flh]

George--I just replaced my kicker-parts & 1-Key will do!--Most important is to have PLENTY of clearance in the starter-gear!.I have mine at .006/-The last replacement was a decade ago & I used the same clearance!--The ball will be lost eventually from the gear & you will find it in the bottom of kicker!--No worries it cant leap-up thru the hole!.You will find that most kickers you pull apart the ball is never there!/maybe 2-out of 50 & that's a opinuinated guess!---Respectfully-------I forgot to mention to keep a eye out for Faulty Pawl or -(ramp).-on kickgear!--I got a NEW DRAG-Specialties KIT!--All was good -(bushings,& Hardness of gears--But the Pawl on the kickgear was SHOT after a dozen kick-thrus while mocking it up!.--I put the old one back in that was OEM! from a decade ago.On the new gear I could take a needlenose plier to the ramp & without much force BEND IT to any direction!--The GEAR itself was GREAT asfar as Hardness as I checked everything after that deal!---Get a Quality throw-out bering!-Check it before installation for excessive side to side movement!,& it must spin easy!---Also-your pushrod /make-sure its length is correct!--Im saying these things as You NEVER KNOW until you open the box!.--Ill try to get a spent kickgear & as long as the Pawl is good,Ill install it on my new one for my other project. The seal & bushings in the cover Fit Perfectly & had correct space for O-ring seal!--Ream the bushings to fit!--Loose is good here!--Not wobbly loose -well you know!-Don't go for it if the kicker seems to move easyily!--Mic. everything & run it loose.-Put grease on O-ring so you don't cut or screw it up when you pit the shaft thru!---Richie

[dbanana]

Here is one with both key ways.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-DAVIDSON ... 1e&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would recommend trying to find an OEM one if possible... even a good used one... I have absolutely no faith in the aftermarket kicker gears.( unless you get the set from Baker... but they are expensive.)

[tucker]

Yep. I have seen this a number of times. After market shafts only use 1 keyway for some reason. Even Andrew. I have had no problems with 1 key to date. I have been stupid enough to use a cheap replacement shaft once and it was a complete pain in the arsre. I lasted about a week and stripped the main thread off. Box back out again and a rebuild. I agree with the fact that you need to use a good make. Andrews are easy to get and not a bad price. Do not buy a cheap shaft as they are rubbish and will cost you more in the end.

Regards Mike

[George Greer]

Thanks for the reply's.

I guess I will run what I have with the one slot.

Does anybody know what the hardness of these gears should be? I am going to take the one that I have to work and put it on our Rockwell Hardness test machine to see where it is.

I guess it don't really matter, I am just curious.

Richie, It's not clear to me what you mean by the clearance on the gear.

George

[George Greer]

Richie...

I think that I got it now........after looking at the data base, and my manual....

It tell's me not to tighten the starter clutch gear nut so tight to have the gear less than 5/8" inch above the edge of the gearbox.

George

[George Greer]

Photos of transmission build.

Notice the little "tit" on the spring, I will be removing that shortly

George

[George Greer]

Oh yea...

forgot to add.......

Please don't get caught baking parts in the wife's oven........

I did, it will get ya into trouble....

George

[58flh]

GEORGE!---The startergear with the bushing is what you want to run loose!/If not enuff running clearance the bushing from the heat will get stuck on the shaft!--Then its a PITA to get it off & not damage the shaft!--I set mine to .006/ IF you go to .007,no big deal!--I find that the rinning clearance I set to is working great on many bikes!.If I rebuild a mixer for somebody -Ill find clearences up to .016/& kicker works fine/-just that little SLIP that hyper extends your leg & knees throbbing for a month can happen with that much!.--You can tell if the starter bushing is real loose on prime-kicks!--If you get a slip when just putting your weight into it -THEN be careful when you put a little more UMPH for hot-kick!---Respectfully--RICHIE

[RUBONE]

George,
Why is that shifter fork shaft sticking out like that? It should fit flush on the case and lock in place with the set screw/retainer. Something isn't right. It looks like you might have a shaft for a shift drum in there.
And the outer kicker gear nut should tighten to be flush with the threaded end of the shaft. Is yours still loose or is the taper on the gear too tight?
Robbie

[George Greer]

Robbie..

The shifter fork's and shaft is just in enough to keep it all in alignment, once the forks are adjusted I will install the seal/o ring and seat it properly.

Same on the starter stuff..........just wanted to make sure it all fit before any torques.

George

Richie.......the running fit on the gear's bushing and shaft is what I should be checking......OK, got it, will check them.

[George Greer]

OK here is the gear that I found in Munich,

It is tapered, and fits the clutch release bearing like a glove. Better even than the squared off one with the ball.

What is is for?

Which one should I be using.

[George Greer]

Fella's.

I found the info.

It is part number 2143-31 fits 1931 to 1938 Big Twin transmissions.

I guess that I will use the aftermarket one, with just the one key and not fret over it.

George

PS. the aftermarket gear measures 59 HRC on the Rockwell Tester. Our machinist says that the starter gear and clutch both are very well made.

[Frankenstein]

George,
Thanks for posting the part number. I've had one of those kicking around for years. I guess it must have come with the all syncro 3sp/rev tranny I got with my first harley, basket case UL. I always presumed it must have used a different throwout bearing.
Nice looking build, by the way.
DD

[George Greer]

Herr Frankenstein,

Thanks......some times (read all the time), I am quite slow at building anything, and taking photos I am even worse.

The transmission build is coming along, and I will attempt to get a build-up of the transmission posted in the garage section.

George