Star hub rebuild

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socalrider
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Star hub rebuild

#1

Post by socalrider »

im rebuilding the star hubs on my 65 flh.first of all let me say that I'm not a machinist so I'm sure my technique for taking accurate measurements is not as good as that of a skilled machinist. I took dimenisions of the star and brake side races. On the star side I got 1.5070 in. And on the brake side i got 1.7515 in. Do those numbers sound right to any of you that have taken these measurements? I used one of those hole gages that snap open then I used vernier calipers to measure the snap gauge. Any advice from any of you experts on how to properly use these measuring tools would be greatly appreciated.I kept getting different readings when I repeated the taking of a measurement on the same side of the hub.The variations were within .0005in. Of each other.the snap gauge is made by Starrett as is the digital vernier caliper.
I was also confused about the star hub diagram in the 1958 to 1968 parts catalog. Index number 35 ( part number 43561-39) is listed as COLLAR , hub bearing. I did not see this part when I took the hub apart. Looking into the hub, I can see a piece that appears to be a collar which is a separate piece that appears to have been pressed into the hub. Could that be what they are describing? If not,can someone please post a picture of this piece?
Gracias,
Arnulfo
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#2

Post by Bigincher »

I have 'some experience' with rebuilding star hubs. A couple years ago, I wrote an article for Buzz Kantor's American Iron blog site-- here's a link:

http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/2009/11 ... wheel-hub/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've described the best way I know to fit new roller bearings, which is by the 'plug fit' method. However, I understand it's not feasable for everyone to have on hand an assortment of rollers with which to do the fitting. Perhaps you can determine with my math and your measuremens the correct rollers to use.
I'm posting the link only to see if it will help you.
Regards,

Tom
socalrider
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#3

Post by socalrider »

Bigincher,
Thanks a lot,great article! Answered my question on the collar. Looks likie it is the piece that is pressed into the hub.it seems to be pressed in tight because it didnt just drop out when i took the hub apart. I think ill try alittle light hammering to see if i can coax it out.Unfortunately, I don't have the various size rollers needed to do the plug fit method you showed,but I will use your math formula to determine the right size roller I need to be within specs.
Gracias,
Arnulfo
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#4

Post by old1955 »

G'day Socalrider,

I never have had to take that spacer out ever, but logic would dictate, that it would have to
be removed to get a hone in there to do the job correctly and renew the bearing surface
to something decent. Does it need honing Arnulfo?

If the bearing surface is not 'out of round' and looks good I wouldn't be removing that ring, there is no need too.

I measured a hub I have apart and one end came in at 1.5 ",..... sorry I have forgotten the other,
don't be to tough on yourself with the measurements, within a thou is way enough. Anything
much smaller than that you have to start considering temperatures.

43561-39 is the pressed-in collar, my parts book (49-57) says, "Inside hub bearing thrust collar" as
you thought.

Pete
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#5

Post by FlatHeadSix »

Arnulfo,
You are getting good advice from everyone, if the bearing surfaces are good you do not need to remove the collar. Almost as important as using the right size rollers is making sure that you have the correct number of shims installed so that there is no excess tollerance from side-to-side. To do this part of the assembly correctly you will need an assortment of those shims in various thicknesses to do the job properly.

Here's a pic of the star hub from my '45 sidecar that I recently rebuilt, the shims are in the stack to the right of the big bearing.

follow the instructions in the shop manual, its not that hard. Use good grease and lots of it.

mike

Image
john HD
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#6

Post by john HD »

mike,

is that the same quill that was in the hack? i figured it would have been a ball of rust!

amazing!

john
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#7

Post by FlatHeadSix »

same one John, the rim and the spokes were rusted beyond saving but after I cut the spokes out and cleaned up the hub it will work like new. The outside of the hub still has a few rust pits but it painted up fine. I parkerized the star and I even used ALL the same screws and washers that hold the star cover on the hub.

Whoever had that thing years ago had it pumped full of grease, that's what saved it! I laced one of Kurt's rims and a new set of cad spokes to it, its back on the hack right now.

here's a couple more pics:

Image

Star hub cover and screws before bead blasting and parkerizing

Image

Hub was badly pitted on the outside, like new on the inside.

Image

Rustoleum appliance epoxy paint, tough stuff, fills the pits

Image

after about 2 months of disassembly, bead blasting, sand blasting, powder coating, painting, parkerizing, and some blood, sweat and tears, the old chassis is back on the ground and rolling again


mike
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#8

Post by ernietrucker »

Nice! Thanks for all the pictures, I'm getting ready to do mine.
socalrider
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#9

Post by socalrider »

pete, mike thank you both very much for the response. i wont be removing the collar , the races are not in need of honing. i mainly wanted to make sure i was not missing any parts being the collar did not just fall out as did the rest of the parts. i will make sure to shim for side play as wells as use plenty of grease. pete i wasnt sure how critical i should be on the measurements , thanks for setting me straight on that.
arnulfo
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Re: Star hub rebuild

#10

Post by Bigincher »

43561-39, the "Inside hub bearing thrust collar", is installed with a very light press fight. Should remove easily with a drift and some careful even 'tapping', if a press is not available. It's not as hard as it sounds. A properly sized socket can be useful to reinstall it, being certain it is bottomed out against the flange in the hub body.
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