Rear Axle

Wheels, hubs and tires
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dmf1
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Rear Axle

#1

Post by dmf1 »

The wheel on my 1959 panhead is binding up when I tighten the outside bold on the axle. Does anyone have any thoughts as to why this could be happening? I took the wheel off and checked all the spacers etc and everything looks ok. Any ideas?
dmf1
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Re: Rear Axle

#2

Post by dmf1 »

could it be that there was not enough grease in the wheel? I had to add quite. Wheel turns a little better now but not much. I also rolled the axle and it is not bent. stumped on this one.
john HD
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Re: Rear Axle

#3

Post by john HD »

too many shims in the star end of the hub? no end play when you tighten?

john
VintageTwin
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Re: Rear Axle

#4

Post by VintageTwin »

Wheels will bind with old grease, if they've sat for years out in the weather. Is your right side spacer correctly installed with the wide diameter next to the frame and the small diameter next to the right side hub?
Is your left side spacer correct?
There is a pattern to tightening the rear axle nut. First is the big sleeve nut, then the axle nut, then the anchor stud nut. The tolerances are so close with these axle parts that brakes could drag, and then not drag, as soon as all the nuts are tightened in the correct order. I hand tighten (very lightly) the axle adjusting screws to where I think the wheel is riding evenly spaced, then when I tighten the big sleeve nut, I look to see how far I was off. Always, one tip of either axle screw will then have an air gap between the tip of the screw and the (left) spacer or the (right) axle big hex nut. If the chain has the needed half inch free play, then I leave the gap between the adjusting screw and go ahead an tighten the axle nut. Then I check the chain free play again. If that's okay, then I hand tighten(lightly) the axle adj. screw, then tighten the anchor nut, then check the chain free play again. I only hand tighten the axle adjusting screws before I lock them into position with their lock nut. Reason is, if you tighten the axle adj. screws with a 7/16 wrench, it will force the wheel back later on and the chain will tighten when you put it on the road.
Are your brake shoes getting bound due to drum warp?

In a non-related issue, I've posted some pics of how to install the timer with the front cylinder head installed. It's over on "Kit Bikes", but you have to be a registered member to view "Kit Bikes".
dmf1
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Re: Rear Axle

#5

Post by dmf1 »

yes, spacers are correct. Could be some grease related binding in there. Im going to ride it around the block and see if there is any change. Its not the brakes. Checked that already. Has to be coming from inside the star hub.
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Re: Rear Axle

#6

Post by VintageTwin »

Don't ride it too far (like one city block) before you put your hand on the hub to see it it's hot. It will ruin the hub if you try and "ride the grease in", it won't. Ask me how I know. (AMHIK).
john HD
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Re: Rear Axle

#7

Post by john HD »

for the little amount of time it would take to disassemble it you sure could get some piece of mind and find out what exactly is going on in there.

plus you could clean it and grease it.

john
Guest

Re: Rear Axle

#8

Post by Guest »

Thanks, I wont go far. Any damage may already be done. I have been on some longer rides and only discovered this problem when I noticed one side of the axle was not flush against the chain tightening screw. The whole axle was loose and when I tightened it, I noticed the drag. Then again, maybe the axle was loose enough that I didn't hurt the hub. Someone told me the star hubs were pretty complicated to take apart. Is it easy to clean and grease if I take the tire off again?
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Re: Rear Axle

#9

Post by FlatHeadSix »

Dean,

First: If you have not already registered for the forum please do so, it only takes a minute. Things that you post as a "guest" must be reviewed and approved before everyone can see them. Sorry, the spammers leave us no choice.

Second: "Easy" is a relative term, what is easy for some is more than difficult for others. Star hub maintenance is not impossible if you follow the procedure in the shop manual and anyone with average mechanical skills and common tools can do it. If you don't have a good shop manual that is the first essential "tool" you need to do the job.

keep us posted and don't be afraid to ask questions. And don't forget to register and log in when you post!

mike
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Re: Rear Axle

#10

Post by dmf1 »

Mike,
Im registered -- didnt realize I wasnt logged in until after I sent the post. I'll report back on the hub after I add some front fok oil (another issue I am sorting out on my 59). Not hard for me to drop the back wheel off and inspect vs what I see in the manual in the meantime. Hopefully can get to the bottom of this.
Thanks,
Dean
dmf1
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Re: Rear Axle (and front forks)

#11

Post by dmf1 »

I took the bike out for a ride around the hood this morning. It rolled out of the garage fine, and it ran fine. No noticeable drag when I am riding it. When I came back and stopped, I felt the star hub and it wasn't even noticeably warm. I took it out for a bit longer ride and then came home and checked it again. This time, it was noticeably warm, but definitely not even close to being hot. I pumped a good amount of grease in the hub so that should be ok. I jacked it up and spun the wheel and although its still a little tight, it definitely spins a little better than before. Question is can I ride it this way? I plan to pull the wheel off and really look into the hub this winter, but would like to get some miles in while the weather is still nice.

On another note, I filled my front forks with oil (6.5 ounces each) and there are no noticeable leaks. However, they still compress a lot when I get on the bike and I hear a hissing sound like the air coming out of a tire. They are a little firmer when I hit a bump or pothole, but they still bottom out on me. Should I try to put in a little more oil, or do I have another problem? Or is that just the way and adjustable fork with a sidecar rides? Thanks to whoever can help!

Dean
VT

Re: Rear Axle

#12

Post by VT »

I pumped a good amount of grease in the hub so that should be ok.
The HD manual says 1 oz. of grease. I measured one ounce out with 33 trigger pulls (onto a measuring scale platform) though unrestrained by a zerk fitting) from a pistol-grip Lincoln®. Too much grease will later separate and grease-oil will foul the brake linings. If you didn't put too much grease in the hub, then I'd say go ride it. Or, ride it anyway and buy new shoes at the beginning of next season. Sounds like the hub temps. normal.
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Re: Rear Axle

#13

Post by john HD »

ride it!

john
dmf1
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Re: Rear Axle

#14

Post by dmf1 »

you guys and a few friends I have spoken to all say ride it, so as difficult as it is, I guess I'll just have to suck it up and take the old girl out for a ride tomorrow morning. While the hub probably isn't perfect, I think its ok. Still trying to figure out the front fork issue but thats not going to stop me either. I'll let you know if I have any problems. cheers.
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Re: Rear Axle, star hub wheel not free spinning

#15

Post by kurtmih »

I recently bought a rebuilt star hub 16 inch wheel from a very reputable shop in Daytona for the rear of my rigid, mechanical brake, 57 Pan. When I tighten the axle nut with just a few foot pounds of torque, the wheel does not free spin. When I completely loosen the axle nut it spins perfect and smooth. I have had this bike for 30 years and have just replaced the rear wheel. This did not happen to this extent with the old wheel. I have not yet remounted the old wheel to verify this. I will do that after this post.
The brakes shoes are a few years old, the hex head axle is old, the right and left side spacers are old and installed correctly (flat side against frame on right side), the sleeve inside the backing plate is old, the backing plate is old and was chrome plated about 20 years ago. All these parts are in very good condition and everything seems "tight/correct". Any ideas? I have assembled the wheel without the brake shoes installed and there was no change.
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