Another tire question

[Davidb]

I have a 61 FLH. Need new tires badly. definitely 20, maybe 30 years old

I have read thru the post and cannot find the answer to a question.

It apears that my rims do not have a center post opening for the valve stem, it is on the side of the rim or offset from center, in other words it is not in between the spokes. Is this considered Center?

One tire "rear" has the Fat rubber valve assembly and the front has a straight metal valve assembly that looks like it should be the same as the back tire. Do they use these big rubber stems for inner tubes

Which is correct and why the difference, I have not taken them apart, as I want to have some new parts to put back together.

I assume both have inner tubes, where can you get the proper tubes that fit the offset stem location or will center position tubes work. are these original rims with this set up.

Still looking at knowledge base on tires, some great info in there

Davidb

[Panacea]

You want the offset stems with the rubber valve, I had a couple tubes with the metal valves and decided to get the rubber ones because the hole in the rim looked a bit large for the metal one, used on later models.

[Davidb]

Panacea,

Thanks, Where do you get them? Do you have a part number. Also, do you need special liners that are not made for center valves.

Thanks

[59Panman]

Davidb,

I got a flat right when I got back from my ride. I just bought 2 tubes from Motorcycle Superstore. If you do a search on RetailMenot for Motorcycle Superstore, select coupon for free shipping. Only good until tomorrow, 10/31.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/22 ... =SLIsearch" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

TR15 Side Rubber Valve --Pick the "SRV OPTION" when you order.

15.99 ea.

Use this code FS-THX-144, for "Free" Shipping


Drag Specialties Heavy-Duty Inner Tube
Color- SRV, Size- 5.00/5.10-16
SKU#2119


Side valve rim strips are

Size - 16" x 1.5"

SKU #596031

[james]

As Panacea said, make sure the valve on tube is the same size as the hole in the rim.
You can't just buy a 5.00/16 tube assuming it will work, the valve needs to fit snug in the rim hole.
A small valve in a large hole rim could cause a problem leak.

Jim

[Davidb]

OZ,

Thanks for the info, parts on order and tires.

Next issue, where do I get the good kit to rebuild Star hubs.

Never done star hubs before

Thanks to all

David B

[james]

There's a website for "Classic American Iron" from November 20, 2009
Harley star hub rebuild by Bigincher.
Very well done.
I plan on doing the same this winter.
Check it out.

Jim

[Omarine]

for the star hub components, I like to use FLATLAND, i tried VTWIn and did not like them - issues with fitment as always. somehow they found a way to screw up even a washer. Bigincher's article was great help to me too!

[Bigincher]

............................. Next issue, where do I get the good kit to rebuild Star hubs.
Never done star hubs before
Thanks to all
David B

David, I don't know if a 'kit' is even made for a 'rebuild', and I wonder if a kit even makes sense, and here's why- How would you know which parts are still fine for re-using, and which parts are worn to the point of being replaced...?
You need to open up the hub, clean up all the parts and pieces, closely examine and determine which parts are usable and which are toast.
You will need to know the HD part numbers of the parts that need replaced.
In the past, I've gotten star hub parts V-Twin and Flatland. Maybe other places too, over the years. But you learn as you go where to find the 'good stuff', so nowadays I like to get star hub parts from Chuck at Kickstart, and also from Into-The-Wilderness.

Thanks to you guys with the kind words on my little blurb on the rebuild.
And thanks again for not making fun of the blue marine grease.
I'm back to using conventional grease with moly these days....

[58flh]

DAVE---All great Info from the guys!--I would like to add --Dont forget to run a smooth file in the rim holes!-(any sharp edges start cutting into the stem!)--Also Now is the time to check your runout,-& I always put DUCT-TAPE over the spokes in the rim & then the HUGE rubberband over that!.The Tape Helps to keep ALOT of water out & That is a GOOD thing!.-Rust can ruin a rim over time ofcourse-So any preventive measures should be taken.I run original star-hubs!--YES its easier to convert to timkens & thats OK.I have got so use to setting-up my hubs ,I actually do both in 2hrs.Also I rip them down once a year!-(Usualy between Jan. & Feb. when the roads are ICE covered.)There is nothing wrong with the Timken Conversion!-You still retain your stars & for JUDGING Thats Important.When I get a guy who wants to keep the OEM design,I explain what it takes to Kepp a Rim/axle set-up like that rolling!/& if there good with tools & have the proper Dial-gage & stand for the rims,Then they keep them!--99% of the time I convert them to Timkins sadly.I say sadly as Everyone should rebuild a few on thier own star-hub rims!/Its somthing to pass on to your son or daughter.---Good-Luck----Respectfuly----RICHIE

[Panacea]

photo-2.JPG

photo.JPG

Ritchie, wouldn't the tape trap any water that leaks in anyway? Here's a pic of my 50 year old rim, I was surprised how nice it was. And I balanced them with a bubble balancer, one was perfect without any weight.

[Davidb]

Thanks for the info. I will start pulling the wheels this weekend.

I know I will need help with brakes

Tanks again for everything

[RUBONE]

That is a beautiful rim Panacea!
Water gets into rims several ways, submersion, living out in the weather, condensation. But by far the worst is washing in a car wash or a pressure sprayer. They are death on wheels and bearings and should be avoided at all times. Hand washing is fine.
Most old rims have a bit of rust near the valve hole. Some have much more. A good rim strip is generally sufficient for tube protection but does not waterproof anything. Duct tape is an extra measure of protection but can also be an issue if done poorly (like anything). I have repaired plenty of flats caused by poorly installed duct tape "liners" chafing a tube. And inflation is very important as underinflated tires allow the tubes to squirm, adding to the problem. And with all things tire related, heat is the killer. Underinflated tires generate huge amounts of it. Remember, there are only two rubber donuts between you and a hard surface.
Robbie

[58flh]

Panacia----Thats one dam clean rim!--Looks better then mine do!,Also as Rubone said I use the tape just for x-tra Measure,& found it helps.Rubone also mentioned that the valve-stem is a good port of entry!-(Thats where I always find the most rust when changing tires for people!---Richie

[Bigincher]

Don't I see a date code of 3 - 71 on that rim?
By my math, that makes it 43 years old.